Tag Archives: trouser

Tradition vs 2015 Trends for Men’s Suits

photo credit EfW

We love our hometown of San Francisco, especially because it attracts people from around the world. The SF Tailor has a wide range of clients who prefer timeless traditions as well as the latest suit trends. Identify your style. Consider breaking out of your comfort zone. Personalize your custom made suit. And suit up after your order arrives in three weeks.

photo credit thesftailor.comBigger, Bolder, Brighter in Blue
A classic navy suit is still in — and it always will be. However high blue or pure blue, in addition to lighter shades are in vogue this year. Suits in brighter blue hues (or shades) make a sharp statement with crisp white shirts, in particular.

Fitness is Fashionable
Slim cut jackets to fit svelte, muscular shoulders, chests and waists are in demand as clients work out. Flat-front, narrow leg trousers are also popular.

Slim or regular cut, a single-breasted suit jacket is formal enough for most occasions. The number of buttons suggests how trendy or conservative your style: a single-button is fashion-forward whereas three-buttons proper business attire.

If narrow leg trousers are your thing, reserve them for evening events. Straight-leg trousers with a soft break (where the hem hits the tongue of the shoes) are more traditional and comfortable for a full-day at work. Get more tips for tall men and short men

Dare to Detail with Accessories

Spring is here, Summer ’round the corner. Infuse color in to darker, classic looking suits with pocket squares. Patterned squares can make a trendy suit pop. Today business isn’t simply transactions. Partners and customers expect to engage with your personality. So enhance your custom made suits from the SF Tailor with accessories.

Spring Forward into Success

cleanWe didn’t enjoy losing an hour of sleep, but your San Francisco Tailor team has been busy spring cleaning our closets and wardrobes.

Now’s the time to spring forward into success. You’re not only refreshing your professional wear… but also

You’re re-energizing your personal brand —
how you communicate your values, experience, and expertise to others.

People want to know you before they collaborate with you. In an era that moves increasingly faster, they’re making snap judgments. How does your external look reflect your personal mission? Are you earning that trust factor with clients, colleagues, and employees?

Before shipping everything to the thrift store, you may want to keep expensive items you wore when you were 15-20 pounds heavier, or sentimental casuals you’ll wear again if you are 10-15 pounds lighter. Anything that cannot be easily altered, repaired, or donated can be recycle into rags.

photo credit styleblazer.com

Pastel colored dress shirts (solid or patterned) pair well with darker ties, or no tie for a casual look during happy hour.

Every season is an opportunity to evaluate anything out of alignment with your personal brand.

Don’t give others the cold shoulder. Leave dark suits to Darth Vader.
Let your confidence shine with brighter colors. Others want to approach & work with
you!

photo credit simonstapleton.com

March Madness: Athletic Fashion

bold bespoke suits, custom tailored shirts, ties for basketball players off-court; avoid fashion police photo credit newsok.biz

Faux pas! Never pair a necktie and short sleeve shirt, Russell Westbrook, left. Fashion pro Kevin Durant, right, solid with gingham (checkered) shirt and bold tie.

We’re celebrating March Madness, the NCAA basketball tournament because fashion and health aren’t mutually exclusive… nor are suits exclusively for men.

bespoke suit should enhance what women and men sculpt in the gym and on the hardwood courts. #equality

Our finely tailored clothes are like trophies, rewards for dedication to training, competition, and good sportsmanship. Muscular bodies require special attention to back and shoulder measurements that department store designers don’t understand. We know you need customized coats that don’t strain at the biceps. Got gorgeous calves? We can make room for them too.

Do you dress as wildly and passionately as you play? or are you classic — you hussle but stay within the bounds?
Sexy athletic fashion is bringing your A-game to practice, game time, and your life.
Is your character the same on and off the court?
Great style is a seamless reflection of your personality.
Lady Vols Pat Summitt suit tailored for taller women Duke Blue Devil Mike Krzyzewski personalized pinstripe suit for power plays on basketball court photo credit supersomebody.com

From the Tennessee Lady Vols Pat Summitt, left, playbook: color blocking and textured fabric. Faint pinstripes and diagonal striped tie from Duke Blue Devil Mike Krzyzewski, right.

Integrity is 85 percent of your look, so here are a few tips for the final 15 percent:

Don’t lengthen your profile, especially if you’re slim.
Avoid vertical stripes as the pattern of your suit and shirts. It can be one or the other. A pinstripe suit with a light-colored checkered (gingham) shirt or solid shirt pairs best. Not wearing a jacket? Tall people can still wear vertical stripe dress shirts sans jacket. (Read how a bespoke dress shirt can impact your future and then customize one in 5 minutes.)

Typically solid suits look good, but don’t avoid patterns or textures.
For some, the same color jacket and trousers can look like too much fabric. Color block, or try textured or patterned fabric like faint pinstripes. Weaves like a subtle herringbone add distinction. We have a large selection of fabric for you to fully customize your suit.

Athlete Tyson Chandler double-breasted navy suit displays confidence, muscle contours off basketball court photo credit herpinkjersey.com

Tyson Chandler dapper in a double-breasted navy blue suit.

Double-breasted jackets are A-OK!
Thinner people find this particular style adds a healthy amount of width to the torso. Why not exercise the option to wear vests? Layers add ‘visual’ weight to lean frames. Women shouldn’t overlook vests.

Tall with a fuller / more muscular chest? You may pass on the double-breasted look, vests, and layering. 

Know your true measurements.
You want a shirt and waist fit well to your torso. Prevent extra fabric from bunching up when you tuck in your shirt. Size matters. Expose less shirt cuff, so arms appear slightly shorter. Order your bespoke shirt in minutes.

Cuff your trouser hems.
An appropriate break — the length where your trousers / pants meet your shoes — will reveal your true height, not an melodramatic one.

Decoded: Formal Wedding Attire


Photo credit amazonaws.comDear SF Tailor,

I’m invited to a big city wedding but I don’t get the wedding attire jargon. After the University of Oregon, my buddy moved to San Francisco and I stayed in Eugene. I don’t like suiting up … but I sure don’t want to look dumb.

Make me a Dapper Duck

Dear Dapper Duck,

tuxedo2Thanks for asking. You’re not alone when it comes to decoding formal wedding attire rules. We’ll break down black tieblack tie optional, and cocktail attire code:

  • Black Tie means tuxedo, or dinner jacket in Britain.
    A single breasted tuxedo with a notched lapel (see photo) looks good on most guys. Lean and lanky guys should consider a shawl lapel.

    A formal tuxedo shirt has a pleated front to the waist, so the shirt doesn’t buckle or bunch up when you’re sitting. Cover your waist with (1) a cummerbund, (2) a vest or waistcoat, or (3) a double breasted dinner jacket which should be buttoned in public at all times.

    Typically the outside leg of tuxedo trousers have a stripe of satin, silk, or grosgrain (a ribbed fabric). Match the stripe and the lapel. Why not choose Thunder Green satin lapels and bow tie? Tuxedo pants can be pleated for a fitted look. However flat front pants are more common. NEVER cuff tuxedo trousers. The look lengthens one’s height and adds elegance.

  • Black Tie Optional
    The wedding party will wear tuxes but other guests can dress slightly more relaxed in dark suits of black, dark grey, or navy. Preview our gallery for a few looks that can double for future special occasions and career events.
  • Cocktail Attire
    Technically, this is slightly less formal than a black tie affair. Cocktail party attendees wear suits with ties. Darker suits are standard. (If you are taller, shorter or more muscular than average, we suggest skimming past blog entries for some style hacks to enhance your look.) Shirts are usually white or a light color. Choose a solid colored tie… perhaps a Lightning Yellow or Thunder Green to celebrate that Oregon spirit.

We’re ready to make a you dashing Duck for your friend’s wedding. Simply visit an alterations shop to get accurate measurements in a few minutes, or follow our instructions on theSFtailor.com where you can easily customize your own tuxedo or suit.

Differently Abled, not Disabled

Dear SF Tailor,

Photo credit SharingTheLionCity.com

Some might label me disabled. The truth is I am differently-abled. I use a wheelchair, but it doesn’t keep me from playing basketball or driving. I’m graduating soon but nervous about job interviews. I can’t stand up to greet interviewers, and eye contact can be awkward if interviewers aren’t at my eye level.

My goal: make a GREAT first impression and LOOK as confident as I feel inside.

Mizzou Mechanical Engineering Major

Dear Mizzou Mechanical Engineering Major,

Photo credit brazencareerist.com

First, celebrate your upcoming graduation! Most grads and working professionals feel anxious about interviews. You know you have both determination and self-respect needed to be successful. Thanks for letting us help you exhibit that!

You also know off-the-rack clothing is unlikely to flatter you. Measurements should be taken in your chair, not lying down. They are are important to customizing your jacket and tailor-made pants on our site. A two-piece bespoke suit starts at $260, better value than buying the blazer and trousers separately. Please note we don’t specialize in adaptive clothing.

Here are 4 strategies to draw eyes to your face, so people focus on what you have to say

    • Wear a solid monochromatic suit to add bulk to your torso, if your legs narrower than the rest of your frame. For a less athletic / active person who uses a wheelchair, a jacket with vertical patterns may lessen the appearance of that midsection. We have a large fabric selection. We also recommend peaked lapels.
    • Trousers with broad cuffs demonstrate your attention to detail.
      Overlooking your ankles suggests you’re sloppy and inattentive. If you haven’t always used a wheelchair, note that sitting trousers are 3-4 inches longer than standard trousers. You may want to add 3 inches to a previous length of up to 31 inches, 4 inches for a previous length of 33 inches or longer.
    • A vest can hide your waistline, focusing on your strong shoulders and chest. These physical assets project strength and confidence according to MensHealth.com.

You indeed may use a wheelchair but all job applicants should focus on their strengths, skills, and job related assets. By law interviewers cannot ask you about your disability. Impress them by doing your homework; prepare a functional disability statement. Here are tips from the American Foundation for the Blind.

Again we appreciate the privilege to dress you. Comfort with your character and clothes is significant, so interviewers show you the dignity you deserve. Best wishes during your job hunting!

— The SF Tailor

Tailoring for Tall Men, Grooms

Photo credit weddingbee.comCongratulations to all you couples who got engaged yesterday on Valentine’s Day. The SF Tailor team is excited for you. Please keep us in mind as your plan your wedding day. We specialize in custom made suits and tuxedos for grooms & groomsmen besides formal wear for fathers of the bride and groom. Our clients have been happy to look and feel great, plus stay within their budgets!

In November we shared 5 tips so a man of shorter proportions can stand taller next to a tall bride.

Today we’re explaining 5 factors when tailoring for tall men:

    • Don’t lengthen your profile, especially if you’re slim.
      Avoid vertical stripes as the pattern of your suit and shirts. A pinstripe suit with a lightly-checkered (gingham) shirt or solid shirt pairs best. If you’re not wearing a jacket, tall men can still wear vertical stripe dress shirts. (Read how a bespoke dress shirt can impact your future and then customize one In 5 minutes.)

      With a tuxedo, a cummerbund can divide your body into shorter and still flattering segments.
    • Solid suits look good, but don’t avoid patterns or textures.
      Typically solid suits look good. For some men, however, the monochromatic (same color) effect can create an unwanted visual effect — the look of too much fabric. More importantly if you like patterned fabric, you don’t have to avoid it. Faint patterns such as faint pinstripes draw positive attention to you.
      Textured clothing also reduces the monochromatic effect.To avoid the look of excess fabric and to add distinction to your wardrobe, tall men can employ weaves like a subtle herringbone. We have a large selection of fabric for you to fully customize your suit or tuxedo.
    • Double-breasted jackets are A-OK!
      Thinner men may find the design of a double breasted jacket can add extra bulk, width or girth to the torso. They also can exercise the option to wear vests. Extra layering add visual weight to their lean frames.If you’re a tall man with nice pecs or a fuller / more muscular chest, you may pass on the double-breasted look… and we don’t recommend vests and layering.
    • Know your true measurements.
      The result will be a shirt and shirt waist fitted well for your torso. This prevents extra fabric (the reality, not the visual effect) from bunching up when you tuck in your shirt. Proportion is important. If you expose less shirt cuff, your arms can appear slightly shorter. Order your bespoke shirt in minutes.
  • Adjust trousers at the hem.
    Have an adequate amount of break — the length where your trousers / pants meet your shoes — to reveal your true height, not an exaggerated one. Another thought to consider is cuffing trouser hems

Do you know a man who has difficulty finding suits or tuxedos that fit well? We’d like the privilege to dress any tall groom, groomsmen, or men who are special to your wedding party.

The SF Tailor provides high-quality and expert tailoring, so a tall men can focus attention on his beautiful bride and comfortably experience their wedding — and any time he wears his bespoke suit or tuxedo.

Show us the Muscle

Jerry Maguire - Show me the MuscleOK, we’re already a month into the new year. How are you progressing toward your fitness goals? If you need extra motivation, we suggest you follow Fitness Aims on twitter… because we want you to

SHOW US THE MUSCLE! — Jerry Maguire  

Whether you’re working hard to tone up or to shed some ‘extra love’ the San Francisco Tailor will provide you with a custom made suit that shows — not hides — your results. Your body isn’t exactly like everybody else’s. So why would you buy a suit that is made for the masses? 

Don’t let those hours at the gym go to waste.
Don’t let off-the-rack clothes insult your beauty. Fitness is beautiful. 

A bespoke suit enhances what women are sculpting. If you have a muscular body, we can tailor clothes that fit. Adios back and shoulder issues! Need a customized coat that doesn’t strain at the biceps? Women, don’t worry about getting big if you like weightlifting. Men’s bodies are made to develop big, bulky muscles. Nevertheless your proportions will change over time. If you’re cyclists, calves are gorgeous… and we can make room for them too.

Don’t settle for clothes at the stores that hide your form like a tent
because your biceps, shoulders, or calves don’t fit the fashion industry’s idea of beauty.

Generation-Iron

As American men play more sports and workout more often, department store suits have failed to keep up with the times. You are Generation Iron, whether your sometimes drink protein shakes or pursue a career as a bodybuilder. Our custom made suits and tuxedos can exhibit your best assets, from broad shoulders to buff legs. Athletic grooms and groomsmen shouldn’t feel unnecessarily uncomfortable at a wedding. (Consult the ‘Flatter his Figure’ section of this groom’s suit guide.) We also tailor vests and coats to your personal proportions. 

Design your power suit in as few as 5 minutes.
Wear your new confidence in as few as 3 weeks.

If you’re unsure about getting accurate measurements, don’t hesitate to contact us. The SF Tailor also accommodates special requests. We excel in tailoring clothes from photographs and your unique measurements. Read here to learn more.

7 Essential Details for Suits

In the blink of an eye January, 2015 has come and gone. We know you’re busy, so here are the most essential details you ought to know about men’s suits… Educate yourself, then take your wardrobe and career to the next level with the personal assistance of The SF Tailor.

fitted shoulders1. Given the opportunity, always opt for custom made or bespoke.
Nothing will fit you better. Nothing will give you the same amount of confidence. Don’t fool yourself. If you don’t have accurate measurements, visit an alterations service and get your stats in minutes… and typically for free.

2. A good fit starts with the shoulders.
If you send unusual measurements when you place an order with The SF Tailor, we will confirm them. We want to craft the best possible fit an online tailor can provide you. We’ve already minimized the overhead, passing along our cost savings to you.

3. Lapels should match the width of your torso.
Only wear peaked lapel suits if you are relatively fit, as they accentuate your torso. A slender chest needs skinnier lapels.

4. Opt for sleeves cuffsa quarter-inch (0.63 cm) longer than your jacket sleeve.
This is a hallmark of a well made, well-thought customized suit. If you’re a man of shorter proportions, expose a half-inch (1.27 cm) of shirt cuff. It’ll make your arms appear longer.

5. Cuffs look traditional on suit pants and add weight to the fabric.
As an extension of this, your trousers will drape better. Again if you are not average height, trousers that sit high on the waist and ‘break’ atop shoes also lengthen the body. Uncuff those trouser hems.

complimentary (diagonally across) colors to mix and match6. When wearing a tie, three patterns rarely work together. Choose two solids and a pattern, or a solid and two patterns.

If you don’t have the knack or aptitude to pair colors, use a color wheel when mixing and matching. To use the wheel, choose colors that are diagonal or complementary. The colors should form an equilateral triangle (three equal sides).

7.  When using a wide spread collar, wear a half Windsor or full Windsor tie knot.
The former is also known as the single Windsor knot. It works well with light- and medium-weight fabrics to produce a neat, triangular knot (smaller than the full Windsor). The technique only brings the tie around the loop on one side, not both. Watch a video demonstration, here. 

Full Windsor KnotThe full or double Windsor is pictured here. It produces a wide symmetrical triangular knot. Watch a video demonstration, here.

Now that you’re better informed, The SF Tailor team can personalize your suits and prime you for your job promotion.

5 Tailoring Tips for Petite Women

We’re celebrating Short Girl Appreciation Day with five tailoring tips for petite women — who are 5’4″ and under, or 163 cm and under.

First, petite doesn’t mean short and slim. Department stores and pret-a-porter (ready to wear) brands however cut fabric and patterns with that in mind. Narrower shoulders and shorter inseams can be uncomfortable and unflattering for short ladies with larger proportions.

Photo credit: foxnews.com

Empire waist lengthens petite legs & compliment curves.

    • A balancing act is needed if you’re a bustier, well-endowed woman.
      An empire waist cuts the torso just below the bustline. This will create a great visual effect — lengthening those petite legs. Pair a fitted top with a high-waist skirt, trousers or jeans… and even ballerina flats to network your way around the city. Don’t hide what you’ve got! Extra baggy or extra long shirts will only call more attention to your top half.

      BONUS: Empire-style waists designed for regular sizes are easier to find than exclusive petite sizing. Cut that pity party short, and get out the door to shop!

  • Layers can fake a perfect fit.

Invest in a custom tailored jacket. Every woman should have a black blazer in her wardrobe.

Dress it up for business meetings and presentations. Inspiring confidence, it makes a powerful statement. Dress it down with a trendy camisole or a t-shirt for a flirty evening on the town, or fun weekend brunch with your entourage of besties.

If those tops don’t fit your form in some places, your bespoke blazer will still make you look fabulous! Cuff long sleeves to instantly lengthen arms.

BONUS: A fitted shirt under a cropped sweater also lengthens the torso. Longer necklaces can draw eyes downward away from your face, as well as drawing eyes upward away from thicker hips and thighs.

faux pas! These trouser hems make a short woman look shorter.

faux pas! These trouser hems make a short woman look shorter.

  • Your legs are not the problem. Ill-fitting pants are.
    Department stores & popular brands don’t design clothes with you in mind. Proportion is key! Trousers should break atop shoes. Bunching and cuffed hems are quick — but poor fixes. Also vertical patternsdraw eyes upward; choose from a large selection of fabric for you to fully customize your trousers and skirts

  • Pair shoes and bottoms that are similar in color.
    Photo credit huffpost.com
    A monochromatic look gives the illusion of a longer silhouette. Stock your closet with shoes similar in color to your skin tone as well as your stockings / nylons.

Be mindful of your coat as well. The SF Tailor hand tailors clothing for every client. Select your fabric and lining to personalize one of four popular styles. We like the Picadilly: It’s cropped and especially complimentary for petite ladies.

Better yet — send us your measurements and a photo of a coat worn by your favorite celebrity. We specialize in these types of orders.

  • Last but not least, be CONFIDENT.
    Don’t resent your body. Embrace what you’ve been given. Know what can make you look good… and know we can make you look good! So you feel confident when you wear what you love.

Dear SF Tailor

Graduate seeks custom fit clothes, entering workforce with confidence

Dear SF Tailor,

I’m graduating college soon, so I’m on the lookout for two main items:

(1) dark brown sportcoat with soft shoulders, a lapel of approximately 3 inches, and a relatively modern cut. I like ____ but it’ll cost me $700. Also ____ had only brown plaids. I’ve looked at a large number of retailers… but my budget is $400. I’m willing to compromise a bit if its something perfect.

(2) office appropriate trousers. I’ve tried _____’s essential cut, but it was too baggy on me, and the next cut down was too slim in the thigh and seat. I’m in limbo since I prefer a slimmer leg opening, which rules out brands like _____ with its 9-inch design.

Eager Eagle at Auburn

Dear Eager Eagle at Auburn,

Congratulations on your upcoming graduation! Best wishes with the job hunt after the celebrations and holidays are done.

We’re glad you know exactly what you want. How soon do you want the sportcoat and trousers? We could fulfill your order in 15 days.

Take time to see how much you can customize your jacket on our site. The price costs under $180. We also provide tailor-made pants for less than $90. A two-piece bespoke suit starts at $260, which is a much better deal than buying the blazer and trousers separately.

If you know your measurements, you’re even closer to that perfect fit you mentioned. Let us know how we can further assist you.