Tag Archives: jackets

Coming Attractions: Fall 2015

We can’t get enough sun and summer dress shirts… but that’s not stopping us from previewing Fall 2015 and its coming attractions.

photo credit pinterest.comGREEN is the new brown.
Pair it with navy, black or brown. Army green is our diplomatic compromise in the cold war between summer’s bright colors and winter’s dark hues. If a whole suit seems too trendy or bold — or if t reminds you of Duck Dynasty — we have some workable alternatives:

Mix a jacket with tweed trousers or vice-versa, a custom-made tweed jacket with green tailored trousers. Broker power with a green dress shirt under a black suit. A tie (and pocket square) in this color upgrades your classic, conservative suit to contemporary.

Go the WHOLE nine yards in print.
From Alexander Wang to Valentino, suits are in full effect: jacket, trousers, even the shirt are the same pattern.Too much awesome for you?  Order a bespoke 3-piece suit: jacket, vest or waistcoat, and trousers.    

photo credit fashionbeans.comDouble down on outerwear.
Despite our home base in California, San Francisco has a surprisingly mild climate. Temps only spike in September and October. So we have a big collection of outerwear, and enthusiastically embrace this trend.

We love the look (and psychological security) of a Levi’s denim jacket… under a tailor-made wool coat. Keep looking polished and professional during your commute, yet prepared for a casual happy hour or coffee-date with your comrades.

Preview our catalog of light-weight fabrics to design your own one-of-a-kind jacket as well. We particularly like rich, complex patterns under those dark, long coats.

Since 2010 The SF Tailor has served a wide range of clients who never tire of traditions, prefer the latest suit trends, or contact us with personalized requests. Preview our gallery for inspiring ideas to design your own custom-made clothes for women and men.

Top 3 Mistakes Groom, Groomsmen Must Avoid

photo credit pinimg.com

At one time or another, we all wanted to marry Superman… but we never thought he’d wear his superhero costume to the wedding ceremony.

To save your wedding day, the San Francisco Tailor comes to the rescue as we ask and answer:

What are the most common suit and tuxedo mistakes? How can I avoid them?

First, don’t rent your tux. Rental tuxedos are like bowling alley shoes and/or roller skates. They can look really worn out. For about the same price, order and own a custom made tuxedo. We deliver the bespoke clothing to your door for your convenience — in as fast as three weeks. By no means should you wait til the last minute, and then face the wrath of Bridezilla!

Second, know your size. It’s difficult to find a good fit in stores. That’s a major reason we founded our online tailoring firm. Visit a neighborhood alterations service — perhaps at your dry cleaner — and in minutes you’ll know your measurements. When you try on the jacket, shoulders should be close to the body but not constricting. When your arms are at your side, sleeves ought to be long enough to show a quarter-inch to a half-inch of shirt cuff. Moreover, the overall jacket length should end at the base of your thumbs, not fingertips.

Third, choose a stylish yet classic tuxedo or suit. Light or charcoal (dark) grey, midnight blue, navy or black always seem sophisticated. Avoid unique or crazy colors… that could take attention away from the bride on her day. (With her permission?) The groom and his entourage can spice up their look with shawl collar tuxes, suspenders, bow ties or accessories.

If you like fashion trends, ladies can’t have all the fun with mismatched bridesmaid dresses. Read up on mismatched suits for groomsmen. After the wedding, your best men can confidently and comfortably wear the suits to individual job interviews, work, power meetings or networking events — and certainly know your moral support is with them.

Since 2010 the SF Tailor has customized tuxedos and suits so you look your best… because you never know where you might meet your significant other or your next employer!

photo credit brides.com

Do your Clothes Suit your Body Shape?

Typically women talk about body shapes — there are seven! — and how to dress each one best. However men shouldn’t remain ignorant about their shapes as well. Fortunately there are only three male body types to consider, from left to right: lean and lanky, moderate and fit, heavy and stout.

photo credit goodstuff.tv

The lean and lanky ectomorph usually has small joints, lean muscles, and somewhat tall. Add bulk to this shape by wearing jackets with padded shoulders. The visual effect is broader shoulders and a fuller chest. Jackets as long as your hip and slim fitting shirts are great. Anything longer or baggier will make you look thinner. Try contrasting bold colors to break-up your long lines.

Moderate and fit mesomorph guys look athletic. They have a large bone structure and muscles. Shoulders are wider than hips, creating an inverted (upside-down) triangle. Jackets as long as your hip or mid-thigh give your shape some balance. Shirts and jackets with wider shoulders but a narrow waist will compliment your fit form. You may have a small waist, so wear straight or wider leg trousers to broaden your lower half.  NO baggy clothing!

The heavy and stout endomorph shape is solid and generally soft. De-emphasize the top-heavy torso with simple styled shirts and jackets. Jackets with shoulder pads bring attention upward and create long slim-looking lines. Single color or similar tones also do this. Choose trousers that are trim, but not tight. Avoid trousers pleated in front.

The SF Tailor created this double-breasted suit jacket for a heavy and stout client. The cut removes focus from a larger than average midsection, and in fact produces a slimming visual effect. Thin vertical lines in the fabric also suggest longer and leaner.

Contact us if you don’t know your body shape and need a quick consultation. Then get your measurements from a local alterations tailor, before your design your very own custom made suit. 

Answers to Most Googled Fashion Questions

No surprise Google tracks all fashion and beauty queries. As an online custom tailor, your friends here at The SF Tailor have answers to prevent headaches PLUS save you time and money.

photo credit etsy.comWhat to wear to a wedding? It depends.

Remember these puzzles and wearing these glasses to decode the mystery message?
Our entry ‘What to wear to a wedding that’s where?’ explains which suits are acceptable for city, country or beach events
. If the event is more formal, skim ‘Decoded: Formal Wedding Attire’ for a quick understanding of tuxedos and phrases like black tie, black tie optional and cocktail attire

What to wear to an interview? A suit that compliments your physique and personality.

Start with a well-tailored two-piece suit for men or women, remembering these 7 essential details. Got special requests? Let us know. We’ve helped suit up job candidates who are differently abled, besides men who are taller or shorter than average. We haven’t overlooked the styling needs of petite women in suits either. Win BIG in the interviews, and then let a casual or formal workplace determine your daily look.

photo credit pinimg.comWhat to wear on a first date?
Put some thought into your selection. Impress but don’t intimidate. Confidence equally attracts women and men.

On women, a suit jacket or blazer implies power — not pushover — but your casual look says playful. Complete your statement with thoughtfully chosen shoes, handbag and accessories.

On men, a jacket is a hint of how well you clean up when you must wear a full suit. You can pair it with (1) a dress shirt, but no tie (2) a t-shirt with a crew neck or V-neck (3) even a polo shirt. We prefer to wear jeans, but khaki-colored trousers hit the beach too. Before you leave the house, ask a good, honest friend if you fail the douchebag test.


What color matches brown?
 Everything even navy and black.

For Spring / Summer months, we like a lighter monochromatic palate. In other words, choose different shades of brown. The jacket on the right is made from a light-weight fabric as well. Come Autumn / Winter seasons, the heavy tweed fabric made from wool will return. We especially love the rich, complex patterns that feature darker and lighter shades of brown.

photo credit mens-fashion.lovetoknow.com

We love San Francisco because our neighbors hail from around the world. Since 2010 The SF Tailor has served a wide range of clients who never tire of traditions, prefer the latest suit trends, or contact us with personalized requests. Preview our gallery for inspiring ideas to design your own custom-made clothes for women or men.

Tradition vs 2015 Trends for Men’s Suits

photo credit EfW

We love our hometown of San Francisco, especially because it attracts people from around the world. The SF Tailor has a wide range of clients who prefer timeless traditions as well as the latest suit trends. Identify your style. Consider breaking out of your comfort zone. Personalize your custom made suit. And suit up after your order arrives in three weeks.

photo credit thesftailor.comBigger, Bolder, Brighter in Blue
A classic navy suit is still in — and it always will be. However high blue or pure blue, in addition to lighter shades are in vogue this year. Suits in brighter blue hues (or shades) make a sharp statement with crisp white shirts, in particular.

Fitness is Fashionable
Slim cut jackets to fit svelte, muscular shoulders, chests and waists are in demand as clients work out. Flat-front, narrow leg trousers are also popular.

Slim or regular cut, a single-breasted suit jacket is formal enough for most occasions. The number of buttons suggests how trendy or conservative your style: a single-button is fashion-forward whereas three-buttons proper business attire.

If narrow leg trousers are your thing, reserve them for evening events. Straight-leg trousers with a soft break (where the hem hits the tongue of the shoes) are more traditional and comfortable for a full-day at work. Get more tips for tall men and short men

Dare to Detail with Accessories

Spring is here, Summer ’round the corner. Infuse color in to darker, classic looking suits with pocket squares. Patterned squares can make a trendy suit pop. Today business isn’t simply transactions. Partners and customers expect to engage with your personality. So enhance your custom made suits from the SF Tailor with accessories.

March Madness: Athletic Fashion

bold bespoke suits, custom tailored shirts, ties for basketball players off-court; avoid fashion police photo credit newsok.biz

Faux pas! Never pair a necktie and short sleeve shirt, Russell Westbrook, left. Fashion pro Kevin Durant, right, solid with gingham (checkered) shirt and bold tie.

We’re celebrating March Madness, the NCAA basketball tournament because fashion and health aren’t mutually exclusive… nor are suits exclusively for men.

bespoke suit should enhance what women and men sculpt in the gym and on the hardwood courts. #equality

Our finely tailored clothes are like trophies, rewards for dedication to training, competition, and good sportsmanship. Muscular bodies require special attention to back and shoulder measurements that department store designers don’t understand. We know you need customized coats that don’t strain at the biceps. Got gorgeous calves? We can make room for them too.

Do you dress as wildly and passionately as you play? or are you classic — you hussle but stay within the bounds?
Sexy athletic fashion is bringing your A-game to practice, game time, and your life.
Is your character the same on and off the court?
Great style is a seamless reflection of your personality.
Lady Vols Pat Summitt suit tailored for taller women Duke Blue Devil Mike Krzyzewski personalized pinstripe suit for power plays on basketball court photo credit supersomebody.com

From the Tennessee Lady Vols Pat Summitt, left, playbook: color blocking and textured fabric. Faint pinstripes and diagonal striped tie from Duke Blue Devil Mike Krzyzewski, right.

Integrity is 85 percent of your look, so here are a few tips for the final 15 percent:

Don’t lengthen your profile, especially if you’re slim.
Avoid vertical stripes as the pattern of your suit and shirts. It can be one or the other. A pinstripe suit with a light-colored checkered (gingham) shirt or solid shirt pairs best. Not wearing a jacket? Tall people can still wear vertical stripe dress shirts sans jacket. (Read how a bespoke dress shirt can impact your future and then customize one in 5 minutes.)

Typically solid suits look good, but don’t avoid patterns or textures.
For some, the same color jacket and trousers can look like too much fabric. Color block, or try textured or patterned fabric like faint pinstripes. Weaves like a subtle herringbone add distinction. We have a large selection of fabric for you to fully customize your suit.

Athlete Tyson Chandler double-breasted navy suit displays confidence, muscle contours off basketball court photo credit herpinkjersey.com

Tyson Chandler dapper in a double-breasted navy blue suit.

Double-breasted jackets are A-OK!
Thinner people find this particular style adds a healthy amount of width to the torso. Why not exercise the option to wear vests? Layers add ‘visual’ weight to lean frames. Women shouldn’t overlook vests.

Tall with a fuller / more muscular chest? You may pass on the double-breasted look, vests, and layering. 

Know your true measurements.
You want a shirt and waist fit well to your torso. Prevent extra fabric from bunching up when you tuck in your shirt. Size matters. Expose less shirt cuff, so arms appear slightly shorter. Order your bespoke shirt in minutes.

Cuff your trouser hems.
An appropriate break — the length where your trousers / pants meet your shoes — will reveal your true height, not an melodramatic one.

Differently Abled, not Disabled

Dear SF Tailor,

Photo credit SharingTheLionCity.com

Some might label me disabled. The truth is I am differently-abled. I use a wheelchair, but it doesn’t keep me from playing basketball or driving. I’m graduating soon but nervous about job interviews. I can’t stand up to greet interviewers, and eye contact can be awkward if interviewers aren’t at my eye level.

My goal: make a GREAT first impression and LOOK as confident as I feel inside.

Mizzou Mechanical Engineering Major

Dear Mizzou Mechanical Engineering Major,

Photo credit brazencareerist.com

First, celebrate your upcoming graduation! Most grads and working professionals feel anxious about interviews. You know you have both determination and self-respect needed to be successful. Thanks for letting us help you exhibit that!

You also know off-the-rack clothing is unlikely to flatter you. Measurements should be taken in your chair, not lying down. They are are important to customizing your jacket and tailor-made pants on our site. A two-piece bespoke suit starts at $260, better value than buying the blazer and trousers separately. Please note we don’t specialize in adaptive clothing.

Here are 4 strategies to draw eyes to your face, so people focus on what you have to say

    • Wear a solid monochromatic suit to add bulk to your torso, if your legs narrower than the rest of your frame. For a less athletic / active person who uses a wheelchair, a jacket with vertical patterns may lessen the appearance of that midsection. We have a large fabric selection. We also recommend peaked lapels.
    • Trousers with broad cuffs demonstrate your attention to detail.
      Overlooking your ankles suggests you’re sloppy and inattentive. If you haven’t always used a wheelchair, note that sitting trousers are 3-4 inches longer than standard trousers. You may want to add 3 inches to a previous length of up to 31 inches, 4 inches for a previous length of 33 inches or longer.
    • A vest can hide your waistline, focusing on your strong shoulders and chest. These physical assets project strength and confidence according to MensHealth.com.

You indeed may use a wheelchair but all job applicants should focus on their strengths, skills, and job related assets. By law interviewers cannot ask you about your disability. Impress them by doing your homework; prepare a functional disability statement. Here are tips from the American Foundation for the Blind.

Again we appreciate the privilege to dress you. Comfort with your character and clothes is significant, so interviewers show you the dignity you deserve. Best wishes during your job hunting!

— The SF Tailor

Tailoring for Tall Men, Grooms

Photo credit weddingbee.comCongratulations to all you couples who got engaged yesterday on Valentine’s Day. The SF Tailor team is excited for you. Please keep us in mind as your plan your wedding day. We specialize in custom made suits and tuxedos for grooms & groomsmen besides formal wear for fathers of the bride and groom. Our clients have been happy to look and feel great, plus stay within their budgets!

In November we shared 5 tips so a man of shorter proportions can stand taller next to a tall bride.

Today we’re explaining 5 factors when tailoring for tall men:

    • Don’t lengthen your profile, especially if you’re slim.
      Avoid vertical stripes as the pattern of your suit and shirts. A pinstripe suit with a lightly-checkered (gingham) shirt or solid shirt pairs best. If you’re not wearing a jacket, tall men can still wear vertical stripe dress shirts. (Read how a bespoke dress shirt can impact your future and then customize one In 5 minutes.)

      With a tuxedo, a cummerbund can divide your body into shorter and still flattering segments.
    • Solid suits look good, but don’t avoid patterns or textures.
      Typically solid suits look good. For some men, however, the monochromatic (same color) effect can create an unwanted visual effect — the look of too much fabric. More importantly if you like patterned fabric, you don’t have to avoid it. Faint patterns such as faint pinstripes draw positive attention to you.
      Textured clothing also reduces the monochromatic effect.To avoid the look of excess fabric and to add distinction to your wardrobe, tall men can employ weaves like a subtle herringbone. We have a large selection of fabric for you to fully customize your suit or tuxedo.
    • Double-breasted jackets are A-OK!
      Thinner men may find the design of a double breasted jacket can add extra bulk, width or girth to the torso. They also can exercise the option to wear vests. Extra layering add visual weight to their lean frames.If you’re a tall man with nice pecs or a fuller / more muscular chest, you may pass on the double-breasted look… and we don’t recommend vests and layering.
    • Know your true measurements.
      The result will be a shirt and shirt waist fitted well for your torso. This prevents extra fabric (the reality, not the visual effect) from bunching up when you tuck in your shirt. Proportion is important. If you expose less shirt cuff, your arms can appear slightly shorter. Order your bespoke shirt in minutes.
  • Adjust trousers at the hem.
    Have an adequate amount of break — the length where your trousers / pants meet your shoes — to reveal your true height, not an exaggerated one. Another thought to consider is cuffing trouser hems

Do you know a man who has difficulty finding suits or tuxedos that fit well? We’d like the privilege to dress any tall groom, groomsmen, or men who are special to your wedding party.

The SF Tailor provides high-quality and expert tailoring, so a tall men can focus attention on his beautiful bride and comfortably experience their wedding — and any time he wears his bespoke suit or tuxedo.

7 Essential Details for Suits

In the blink of an eye January, 2015 has come and gone. We know you’re busy, so here are the most essential details you ought to know about men’s suits… Educate yourself, then take your wardrobe and career to the next level with the personal assistance of The SF Tailor.

fitted shoulders1. Given the opportunity, always opt for custom made or bespoke.
Nothing will fit you better. Nothing will give you the same amount of confidence. Don’t fool yourself. If you don’t have accurate measurements, visit an alterations service and get your stats in minutes… and typically for free.

2. A good fit starts with the shoulders.
If you send unusual measurements when you place an order with The SF Tailor, we will confirm them. We want to craft the best possible fit an online tailor can provide you. We’ve already minimized the overhead, passing along our cost savings to you.

3. Lapels should match the width of your torso.
Only wear peaked lapel suits if you are relatively fit, as they accentuate your torso. A slender chest needs skinnier lapels.

4. Opt for sleeves cuffsa quarter-inch (0.63 cm) longer than your jacket sleeve.
This is a hallmark of a well made, well-thought customized suit. If you’re a man of shorter proportions, expose a half-inch (1.27 cm) of shirt cuff. It’ll make your arms appear longer.

5. Cuffs look traditional on suit pants and add weight to the fabric.
As an extension of this, your trousers will drape better. Again if you are not average height, trousers that sit high on the waist and ‘break’ atop shoes also lengthen the body. Uncuff those trouser hems.

complimentary (diagonally across) colors to mix and match6. When wearing a tie, three patterns rarely work together. Choose two solids and a pattern, or a solid and two patterns.

If you don’t have the knack or aptitude to pair colors, use a color wheel when mixing and matching. To use the wheel, choose colors that are diagonal or complementary. The colors should form an equilateral triangle (three equal sides).

7.  When using a wide spread collar, wear a half Windsor or full Windsor tie knot.
The former is also known as the single Windsor knot. It works well with light- and medium-weight fabrics to produce a neat, triangular knot (smaller than the full Windsor). The technique only brings the tie around the loop on one side, not both. Watch a video demonstration, here. 

Full Windsor KnotThe full or double Windsor is pictured here. It produces a wide symmetrical triangular knot. Watch a video demonstration, here.

Now that you’re better informed, The SF Tailor team can personalize your suits and prime you for your job promotion.

Grey Skies, Grey Suits, and Silver Foxes

Photo credit MenStyleFashion.comAs James Bond fans, the dark winter grey skies of Scotland seen in the SkyFall film popularized grey suits for men of all ages.

Previously we had some clients with greying hair — even salt and pepper beards — shy away from the color. However these distinguished silver foxes look most handsome in custom made suits.

We may not be waiting for snow to melt, but we’re ready for spring… yet holding onto this grey suit trend. The color symbolizes power. It’s particularly effective during business meetings and negotiations. If you feel the same way, we’re share these 3 simple suggestions with you.

Photo credit MenStyleFashion.com

Layer

Once you arrive at the office, shed your overcoat. Your 2-piece or 3-piece suit will keep you warm, stylish and ever confident to collaborate with clients or colleagues.

Color

Don’t be afraid to mix colors like this brown coat and grey suit. The blend’s a nice reminder of brisk autumn days turning into winter at Thanksgiving. Blue and grey look smart together too.

As noted, your bespoke grey suit can be a go-to for appointments. (Reserve that Darth Vader black power suit for the toughest business battles.) Soften your tone for a networking event or social occasion by adding color via a shirt, tie or bowtie, or vest. From January through early March, a navy necktie and a burgundy checkered shirt make a bold statement. In the spring, grey pairs well with pastels like light blue, lavender, even pink for a Mothers’ Day brunch… setting a youthful tone, not yawn.

Photo credit MenStyleFashion.com

Vest

Last but not least, the vest is an often overlooked accessory. Here, David Gandy models a classic monochrome look. (Note how the brown hue of his hat, tie, pocket scarf and shoes pair rather well with his grey jacket and vest.)

We’ve rung in 2015. TheSFtailor.com site allows you to fully customize your vest. So why not choose colors or a pattern that complements your grey suit? It’s a new year, redefine your boundaries in personal style and professional success.

Now is an opportune time to be bigger, brighter and bolder.

Women who prefer grey suits can follow the same tips. Visit this page to begin personalizing your suit today. If you’re a woman who prefers a men’s cut coat, suit, or vest, email us with your request. We’ll be happy to respectfully fulfill your order.

We’re prepared to help men and women — of any proportions — who deserve our personal attention and tailoring services.