Tag Archives: career

Decoded: Formal Wedding Attire


Photo credit amazonaws.comDear SF Tailor,

I’m invited to a big city wedding but I don’t get the wedding attire jargon. After the University of Oregon, my buddy moved to San Francisco and I stayed in Eugene. I don’t like suiting up … but I sure don’t want to look dumb.

Make me a Dapper Duck

Dear Dapper Duck,

tuxedo2Thanks for asking. You’re not alone when it comes to decoding formal wedding attire rules. We’ll break down black tieblack tie optional, and cocktail attire code:

  • Black Tie means tuxedo, or dinner jacket in Britain.
    A single breasted tuxedo with a notched lapel (see photo) looks good on most guys. Lean and lanky guys should consider a shawl lapel.

    A formal tuxedo shirt has a pleated front to the waist, so the shirt doesn’t buckle or bunch up when you’re sitting. Cover your waist with (1) a cummerbund, (2) a vest or waistcoat, or (3) a double breasted dinner jacket which should be buttoned in public at all times.

    Typically the outside leg of tuxedo trousers have a stripe of satin, silk, or grosgrain (a ribbed fabric). Match the stripe and the lapel. Why not choose Thunder Green satin lapels and bow tie? Tuxedo pants can be pleated for a fitted look. However flat front pants are more common. NEVER cuff tuxedo trousers. The look lengthens one’s height and adds elegance.

  • Black Tie Optional
    The wedding party will wear tuxes but other guests can dress slightly more relaxed in dark suits of black, dark grey, or navy. Preview our gallery for a few looks that can double for future special occasions and career events.
  • Cocktail Attire
    Technically, this is slightly less formal than a black tie affair. Cocktail party attendees wear suits with ties. Darker suits are standard. (If you are taller, shorter or more muscular than average, we suggest skimming past blog entries for some style hacks to enhance your look.) Shirts are usually white or a light color. Choose a solid colored tie… perhaps a Lightning Yellow or Thunder Green to celebrate that Oregon spirit.

We’re ready to make a you dashing Duck for your friend’s wedding. Simply visit an alterations shop to get accurate measurements in a few minutes, or follow our instructions on theSFtailor.com where you can easily customize your own tuxedo or suit.

Differently Abled, not Disabled

Dear SF Tailor,

Photo credit SharingTheLionCity.com

Some might label me disabled. The truth is I am differently-abled. I use a wheelchair, but it doesn’t keep me from playing basketball or driving. I’m graduating soon but nervous about job interviews. I can’t stand up to greet interviewers, and eye contact can be awkward if interviewers aren’t at my eye level.

My goal: make a GREAT first impression and LOOK as confident as I feel inside.

Mizzou Mechanical Engineering Major

Dear Mizzou Mechanical Engineering Major,

Photo credit brazencareerist.com

First, celebrate your upcoming graduation! Most grads and working professionals feel anxious about interviews. You know you have both determination and self-respect needed to be successful. Thanks for letting us help you exhibit that!

You also know off-the-rack clothing is unlikely to flatter you. Measurements should be taken in your chair, not lying down. They are are important to customizing your jacket and tailor-made pants on our site. A two-piece bespoke suit starts at $260, better value than buying the blazer and trousers separately. Please note we don’t specialize in adaptive clothing.

Here are 4 strategies to draw eyes to your face, so people focus on what you have to say

    • Wear a solid monochromatic suit to add bulk to your torso, if your legs narrower than the rest of your frame. For a less athletic / active person who uses a wheelchair, a jacket with vertical patterns may lessen the appearance of that midsection. We have a large fabric selection. We also recommend peaked lapels.
    • Trousers with broad cuffs demonstrate your attention to detail.
      Overlooking your ankles suggests you’re sloppy and inattentive. If you haven’t always used a wheelchair, note that sitting trousers are 3-4 inches longer than standard trousers. You may want to add 3 inches to a previous length of up to 31 inches, 4 inches for a previous length of 33 inches or longer.
    • A vest can hide your waistline, focusing on your strong shoulders and chest. These physical assets project strength and confidence according to MensHealth.com.

You indeed may use a wheelchair but all job applicants should focus on their strengths, skills, and job related assets. By law interviewers cannot ask you about your disability. Impress them by doing your homework; prepare a functional disability statement. Here are tips from the American Foundation for the Blind.

Again we appreciate the privilege to dress you. Comfort with your character and clothes is significant, so interviewers show you the dignity you deserve. Best wishes during your job hunting!

— The SF Tailor

Tailoring for Tall Men, Grooms

Photo credit weddingbee.comCongratulations to all you couples who got engaged yesterday on Valentine’s Day. The SF Tailor team is excited for you. Please keep us in mind as your plan your wedding day. We specialize in custom made suits and tuxedos for grooms & groomsmen besides formal wear for fathers of the bride and groom. Our clients have been happy to look and feel great, plus stay within their budgets!

In November we shared 5 tips so a man of shorter proportions can stand taller next to a tall bride.

Today we’re explaining 5 factors when tailoring for tall men:

    • Don’t lengthen your profile, especially if you’re slim.
      Avoid vertical stripes as the pattern of your suit and shirts. A pinstripe suit with a lightly-checkered (gingham) shirt or solid shirt pairs best. If you’re not wearing a jacket, tall men can still wear vertical stripe dress shirts. (Read how a bespoke dress shirt can impact your future and then customize one In 5 minutes.)

      With a tuxedo, a cummerbund can divide your body into shorter and still flattering segments.
    • Solid suits look good, but don’t avoid patterns or textures.
      Typically solid suits look good. For some men, however, the monochromatic (same color) effect can create an unwanted visual effect — the look of too much fabric. More importantly if you like patterned fabric, you don’t have to avoid it. Faint patterns such as faint pinstripes draw positive attention to you.
      Textured clothing also reduces the monochromatic effect.To avoid the look of excess fabric and to add distinction to your wardrobe, tall men can employ weaves like a subtle herringbone. We have a large selection of fabric for you to fully customize your suit or tuxedo.
    • Double-breasted jackets are A-OK!
      Thinner men may find the design of a double breasted jacket can add extra bulk, width or girth to the torso. They also can exercise the option to wear vests. Extra layering add visual weight to their lean frames.If you’re a tall man with nice pecs or a fuller / more muscular chest, you may pass on the double-breasted look… and we don’t recommend vests and layering.
    • Know your true measurements.
      The result will be a shirt and shirt waist fitted well for your torso. This prevents extra fabric (the reality, not the visual effect) from bunching up when you tuck in your shirt. Proportion is important. If you expose less shirt cuff, your arms can appear slightly shorter. Order your bespoke shirt in minutes.
  • Adjust trousers at the hem.
    Have an adequate amount of break — the length where your trousers / pants meet your shoes — to reveal your true height, not an exaggerated one. Another thought to consider is cuffing trouser hems

Do you know a man who has difficulty finding suits or tuxedos that fit well? We’d like the privilege to dress any tall groom, groomsmen, or men who are special to your wedding party.

The SF Tailor provides high-quality and expert tailoring, so a tall men can focus attention on his beautiful bride and comfortably experience their wedding — and any time he wears his bespoke suit or tuxedo.

7 Essential Details for Suits

In the blink of an eye January, 2015 has come and gone. We know you’re busy, so here are the most essential details you ought to know about men’s suits… Educate yourself, then take your wardrobe and career to the next level with the personal assistance of The SF Tailor.

fitted shoulders1. Given the opportunity, always opt for custom made or bespoke.
Nothing will fit you better. Nothing will give you the same amount of confidence. Don’t fool yourself. If you don’t have accurate measurements, visit an alterations service and get your stats in minutes… and typically for free.

2. A good fit starts with the shoulders.
If you send unusual measurements when you place an order with The SF Tailor, we will confirm them. We want to craft the best possible fit an online tailor can provide you. We’ve already minimized the overhead, passing along our cost savings to you.

3. Lapels should match the width of your torso.
Only wear peaked lapel suits if you are relatively fit, as they accentuate your torso. A slender chest needs skinnier lapels.

4. Opt for sleeves cuffsa quarter-inch (0.63 cm) longer than your jacket sleeve.
This is a hallmark of a well made, well-thought customized suit. If you’re a man of shorter proportions, expose a half-inch (1.27 cm) of shirt cuff. It’ll make your arms appear longer.

5. Cuffs look traditional on suit pants and add weight to the fabric.
As an extension of this, your trousers will drape better. Again if you are not average height, trousers that sit high on the waist and ‘break’ atop shoes also lengthen the body. Uncuff those trouser hems.

complimentary (diagonally across) colors to mix and match6. When wearing a tie, three patterns rarely work together. Choose two solids and a pattern, or a solid and two patterns.

If you don’t have the knack or aptitude to pair colors, use a color wheel when mixing and matching. To use the wheel, choose colors that are diagonal or complementary. The colors should form an equilateral triangle (three equal sides).

7.  When using a wide spread collar, wear a half Windsor or full Windsor tie knot.
The former is also known as the single Windsor knot. It works well with light- and medium-weight fabrics to produce a neat, triangular knot (smaller than the full Windsor). The technique only brings the tie around the loop on one side, not both. Watch a video demonstration, here. 

Full Windsor KnotThe full or double Windsor is pictured here. It produces a wide symmetrical triangular knot. Watch a video demonstration, here.

Now that you’re better informed, The SF Tailor team can personalize your suits and prime you for your job promotion.

Grey Skies, Grey Suits, and Silver Foxes

Photo credit MenStyleFashion.comAs James Bond fans, the dark winter grey skies of Scotland seen in the SkyFall film popularized grey suits for men of all ages.

Previously we had some clients with greying hair — even salt and pepper beards — shy away from the color. However these distinguished silver foxes look most handsome in custom made suits.

We may not be waiting for snow to melt, but we’re ready for spring… yet holding onto this grey suit trend. The color symbolizes power. It’s particularly effective during business meetings and negotiations. If you feel the same way, we’re share these 3 simple suggestions with you.

Photo credit MenStyleFashion.com

Layer

Once you arrive at the office, shed your overcoat. Your 2-piece or 3-piece suit will keep you warm, stylish and ever confident to collaborate with clients or colleagues.

Color

Don’t be afraid to mix colors like this brown coat and grey suit. The blend’s a nice reminder of brisk autumn days turning into winter at Thanksgiving. Blue and grey look smart together too.

As noted, your bespoke grey suit can be a go-to for appointments. (Reserve that Darth Vader black power suit for the toughest business battles.) Soften your tone for a networking event or social occasion by adding color via a shirt, tie or bowtie, or vest. From January through early March, a navy necktie and a burgundy checkered shirt make a bold statement. In the spring, grey pairs well with pastels like light blue, lavender, even pink for a Mothers’ Day brunch… setting a youthful tone, not yawn.

Photo credit MenStyleFashion.com

Vest

Last but not least, the vest is an often overlooked accessory. Here, David Gandy models a classic monochrome look. (Note how the brown hue of his hat, tie, pocket scarf and shoes pair rather well with his grey jacket and vest.)

We’ve rung in 2015. TheSFtailor.com site allows you to fully customize your vest. So why not choose colors or a pattern that complements your grey suit? It’s a new year, redefine your boundaries in personal style and professional success.

Now is an opportune time to be bigger, brighter and bolder.

Women who prefer grey suits can follow the same tips. Visit this page to begin personalizing your suit today. If you’re a woman who prefers a men’s cut coat, suit, or vest, email us with your request. We’ll be happy to respectfully fulfill your order.

We’re prepared to help men and women — of any proportions — who deserve our personal attention and tailoring services.

How Your Custom Tailored Shirt Impacts Your Future

Our custom made shirts are tailored to your individual measurements. You can choose from a wide assortment of colors and patterns, while our talented and experienced tailor selects quality fabrics. You’ll be pleasantly surprised to know that bespoke shirts are often no more expensive than mass-produced, store bought shirts. Today you can easily afford custom made garments.

photo credit hughandcrye.comReady-to-wear isn’t as ready as we think. Is this the impression you want to make?

Ready to wear clothes aren’t designed with you in mind. If you’re lucky enough to fit mainstream sizes, you can settle for something — but you’ll never know a perfect fit and self-assurance it can bring to your character.

The SF Tailor team creates each dress shirt with skill, care and pride. The shirt will retain its good appearance and shape. Clothes crafted exclusively for you fit correctly. So you can look and feel your best.

photo credit HouseOfHarper.comBespoke shirts are versatile and essential to your wardrobe. On days when the office is less busy and quieter, hang up that custom tailored suit jacket. Your dress shirt will suffice in the workplace.

Perhaps you have important clients you want to impress. Monogrammed cuffs are an exquisite detail — and your business partners will notice. Customizing the thread color of the button holes also signals your attention to detail. Do your clients and vendors know who you are?  Gain an unspoken advantage in negotiations and close those contracts.

People who reserve their customized shirts for extra special occasions get opportunities to excel, but those chances are fewer and farther apart.

Tailored shirts are often better quality than store bought shirts. When you also consider the confidence they bring and the opportunities for professional advancement, you get a greater ROI (return on your investment). You don’t need to work on Wall Street to get great value for your money.

As an online tailor, The SF Tailor, already lowers our overhead to offer you affordable elegance.

Is a Faster, Cheaper, Better Suit Possible?

photo credit lovethispic.com

When some of our clients receive their first – ever custom tailored suits, they often feel like Neil Armstrong on the moon: one small step for man, one giant leap for man’s self-esteem 

Let’s rewind and review how we got here together:

At first these individuals were hesitant and doubtful of online custom tailors. Which online tailor is the best? Can I trust Google search results? I’m ordering online but prices are still expensive. Other online tailors’ suits are even cheaper. Maybe I’ll go back to the department store…  

Can The SF Tailor really make a faster, cheaper, better – fitting suit for me?

Before your suit is tailored by hand, take a few minutes to get your measurements. Simply visit an alterations service. (BTW these individuals cannot necessarily sew a bespoke suit. They focus on minor changes.) With accurate measurements, fully customize your suit at theSFtailor.com.

The fastest turnaround time we offer
is two weeks.

Bespoke services can start at four-figures when you consider the overhead of a brick-and-mortar store, excessive inventory of fabrics, client service representatives, and more. With a two-week deadline, we’re focusing on your suit in our studio — instead of getting distracted by walk-ins who aren’t sure custom-made is for them. We share our cost savings with you, our clients and friends.

Our online custom suiting is more accessible, starting at less than $250 USD.

Even top Google-ranked competitors charge at least $450 USD for custom online suits. They use digital cutting and machine construction, commanding higher profit margins (for their investors) than we do. They’ll offer discounts to spur sales. On the other hand, we maintain a tradition of hand tailoring and detailing. We enjoy our work — and won’t under-sell our staff and their craft.

What you get is custom-made, high-quality elegance at a affordable price point. 

From college and university graduates to small businessowners and entrepreneurs, our clients want to feel confident and look good. They haven’t made their millions — yet. Til then, why should they settle for cheap, poorly-made, disposable suits off-the-rack?

Messenger Bag or Backpack?

As far as the boxers or briefs debate goes, we just want men to be comfortable. If you can’t feel secure in your skivvies or pants, we can’t make you feel confident in a bespoke suit or tuxedo.

On the other hand, The SF Tailor team can help you answer the ‘briefcase or backpack’ question. Our studio discussions can get heated about pairing our high-quality work with a thoughtless choice in accessories. You already saved yourself time and money by suiting up with us — instead of running around to the department stores, trying on ill-fitting suits, and ordering alterations.

Deal or No Deal? Do you want Howie Mandel’s briefcase?

Let us save you even more time and money by sharing insights regarding work-appropriate bags.

It’s inexcusable for any professional to carry papers, tablets a/o laptops, wallet, etc. in a clumsy manner. We know you don’t want your father’s bulky briefcase … unless it promises to bring you thousands of dollars. Here are the facts on professional, practical and stylish work bags:

Boconi - Tyler slim leather briefcase

Boconi

A briefcase or commuter portfolio remains the most popular. It’s classic, sturdy, and a leather one gives you a sophisticated appearance. It needn’t be boxy or resemble an antique doctor’s bag unless you want it to. Everybody can personalize accessories.

The messenger bag / tech bag has risen in popularity. It’s hip with its single shoulder strap to hold your documents and electronic devices. It’s a trendy briefcase. We’re a bit old school and prefer cowhide, but tech and sport fans like a padded, quality nylon laptop attaché. We advise against canvas, which looks collegiate. 

Ben Minkoff - Core Bondi leather backpack

Ben Minkoff

The backpack does not necessarily suggest immaturity. If you carry a heavier load, divide that weary burden over two strong shoulders. Again leather (or suede) will give you a more polished look, instead of those nylon Jansport bags from high school. Whatever you choose, do not use your college or continent-trekking backpack.

Don’t forget the duffel or sports bag if you prefer to hit the gym and workout after work. You may have wonderful memories with your old (smelly) Nike bag… but it’s time to move up with those job promotions.

Note: be careful when you accept freebies at trade shows. There’s no such thing as a free lunch. Do you really want to advertise and affiliate yourself with that brand and logo, especially when you’re wearing your go-to suit of confidence?

Messenger bag or backpack? You’ve got more than two options — and remember that the SF Tailor offers you fully-customizable bespoke suits or tuxedos at the most affordable prices.

Dear SF Tailor

Graduate seeks custom fit clothes, entering workforce with confidence

Dear SF Tailor,

I’m graduating college soon, so I’m on the lookout for two main items:

(1) dark brown sportcoat with soft shoulders, a lapel of approximately 3 inches, and a relatively modern cut. I like ____ but it’ll cost me $700. Also ____ had only brown plaids. I’ve looked at a large number of retailers… but my budget is $400. I’m willing to compromise a bit if its something perfect.

(2) office appropriate trousers. I’ve tried _____’s essential cut, but it was too baggy on me, and the next cut down was too slim in the thigh and seat. I’m in limbo since I prefer a slimmer leg opening, which rules out brands like _____ with its 9-inch design.

Eager Eagle at Auburn

Dear Eager Eagle at Auburn,

Congratulations on your upcoming graduation! Best wishes with the job hunt after the celebrations and holidays are done.

We’re glad you know exactly what you want. How soon do you want the sportcoat and trousers? We could fulfill your order in 15 days.

Take time to see how much you can customize your jacket on our site. The price costs under $180. We also provide tailor-made pants for less than $90. A two-piece bespoke suit starts at $260, which is a much better deal than buying the blazer and trousers separately.

If you know your measurements, you’re even closer to that perfect fit you mentioned. Let us know how we can further assist you.

Suit Up for Success

As friends and family brine turkeys and prepare for Black Friday shopping sales, the team at The SF Tailor thanks several not-for-profit organizations throughout the U.S. for helping disadvantaged and/or previously homeless men and women who are want to find jobs and remain employed.

Photo credit MomItForward.com

He’s overcome adversity. Lack of a suit shouldn’t set him back.

Like them, we also want to promote economic independence of our neighbors, and often veterans who have defended our personal freedoms. Not everybody will share the million dollar success story of Chris Gardner, portrayed by Will Smith in The Pursuit of Happyness.

However men and women who learn job skills have overcome much adversity…

yet something as small as the lack of a business suit can still set back these individuals.

Domestic violence shelters, job training programs, and family services providers typically rely on career clothing donations. So choices are limited — especially for clients of larger proportions.

Imagine an ill-fitting suit when the job candidate already feels nervous, intimidated, doubtful.

Photo credit TheGuardian.co.uk

How do you feel in an interview? And how comfortable is your suit?

Consider the gift of a custom tailored suit for one of these beneficiaries. By providing professional attire, any of these men or women can feel confident and better positioned to thrive in work and in life. Help them towards self-sufficiency. Dress them for success.

Use this Black Friday 2014 promotion upon check-out for $25 off the already lowest prices for fully customized suits: 100152TJM43NDA18

This code is valid through 31 December 2014.
Why not buy an additional suit for yourself?