“Style is the answer to everything. A fresh way to approach a dull or dangerous thing.
To do a dangerous thing with style is what I call art.” – Charles Bukowski
Know thyself to make certain your custom made clothing fits as well as possible. In other words, get accurate measurements. In part 2 in this series of Basics for Newly Bespoke, we cover the measurements you need to order a tailored made suit. Simply knowing your height isn’t enough.
Print the measurements page before visiting a local alterations service to get your profile in minutes.
Waist: Wearing only boxers or briefs — measure your natural waistline, or the narrowest part of the torso. For most it is at the same height as the belly button (but it may be above the navel for people with long upper torsos). Your weight can change so keep one finger between the measuring tape & your body. In contrast stomach size is the widest part of your abdomen and hip size is the widest part below the waist.
Crotch: Anchor the tape at the center of your back at your waist. Run the tape between your legs, pulling comfortably at the crotch, and up to your natural waist in front. This should not fit as snuggly as a jock strap! The tape should be at the same level, front and back. In contrast thigh size measures the widest part of your upper leg.
Pant length: Without your shoes and standing on a hard floor (not a carpet or rug) hold the tape from the waist to approximately an inch above the floor.
Jacket / shirt length: See image left. Relax your arms at your sides and measure from the highest part of your shoulder, or the point next to the shirt collar, to the tip of your thumb. The tape must pass through the center of the chest. If your legs are shorter, slightly reduce the length of your jacket.
Sleeve length is the distance from one shoulder inseam down the arm to the thumb bone. Bicep size is the measurement from the widest part of your bicep muscle. Wrist size is taken when the tape is wrapped around a wrist with a finger between your body and the tape.
Shoulder width: Extend tape from one sleeve inseam to the other, along the lowest part of the shirt’s neck. In contrast measure your chest from under your arms and around the fullest part of your chest.
Neck Size: Keep the tape slightly loose around the middle of your neck (at the Adam’s apple). By loose, we mean insert one or two fingers between your neck and the tape.
Your body can change especially if you are doing cross-fit or extreme fitness training. If so, visit a local alterations service to get re-measured every 6-12 months.
Trust model shots or lookbooks for styles, not examples of how clothes will fit because expert use of a bulldog clip guarantees a perfect fit all the time! Part 3 will cover styles that fit your figure.