Tag Archives: larger proportions

Classic Coats in Bold Colors, Prints, Patterns

custom tailored camel color men's wool coat by San Francisco TailorBespoke tailoring for men and women is stylish year-round, especially with coat season. We’ve got 5 stylish coats people are excitedly talking about this autumn.

Peacoat
A made to measure classic wool peacoat is as reliable as your best friend. With long lines, it quickly adds sophistication to any wardrobe. Black is always fashionable. This fall don’t leave home without a beige/camel or winter white peacoat. Enjoy those double takes as you make heads turn with the combination of a refreshing color and classic style. Keep warm during your commute — and do it in style! Great over your bespoke pant suits.

Double­ Breasted
The double­-breasted coat with its iconic two-columns of buttons remains trendy with the addition of bright colors as well as traditional cut or style. This season — if attention is what  you’re after — stop traffic in red, pumpkin or gold like the color of the falling leaves. Prefer dark basic colors but still want to WOW the public? We like the black and white Alabama houndstooth print. Women enjoy this coat with tailored suits and tall boots. Average and shorter-than-average individuals usually have four buttons; taller people can accommodate six buttons.

Military Style
Military style coats are not exclusively for men any longer. Women have adopted the military  coat much like the biker jacket. No surprise this outerwear trend is here to stay. It’s coveted for both its form and function. Again darker colors are more common, but The SF Tailor would love the opportunity to fulfill your order for a personalized military coat in a lighter color.

Women's Trench Coat fits perfectly when it's made to measure to your sizeTrench
Pictured left, a classic trench coat NEVER goes out of style. It’s light weight lets you easily transition from fall to winter… and again as winter thaws into spring. Instead of the predictable all ­black ensemble, liven things up. Choose colors that pop such as emerald green. This dandelion gold trench lifts our spirits when the weather is overcast or gloomy. Petite ladies like long black sweaters, leggings and ballet flats.

Duffle Coat
A street-­style staple, the duffle coat can be worn with almost anything during the fall/winter seasons. Women conveniently pair this outerwear item with cream colored custom suits or a casual look with jeans.

Bespoke tailoring isn’t restricted to suits and tuxedos. The cold season keeps up fairly busy with returning clients ordering these classic coats in unique fabrics and colors including lining.

Hot Fashion for Winter Formal

photo credit DJDM/WENN.com via skim.gs Mark Ballas grey suit Derek Hough black suit tailored

Mark Ballas and Derek Hough on the town, off the DWTS dancefloor.

Want to dance with the stars at your Winter Formal or Prom?

The SF Tailor has these hot styles for the cold season, so you look as good at the dance as these suits on the red carpets. Our clients feel confident wearing made to measure suits and customized tuxedos to fit their own swagger — not something generic off carousels from the mall.

Whether your special event is semi-formal (suit OK) or black tie (tux required) you’ll want well-made, affordable clothes you can keep after the occasion. Do you really want to rent? Resent the idea of another person showing up in the exact same outfit?

Above, Mark Ballas sports a gray two-piece suit with a peaked lapel. The white shirt creates a strong contrast for his black and white-striped tie to pop. It’s a much less formal look. We prefer Zac Efron in a three-piece charcoal gray suit and stripped tie; layering with a vest adds sophistication. Derek Hough’s intense ensemble is a darker side we don’t usually see: Monochromatic black suit, shirt and solid color tie demand all eyes are on him. Jayden Smith pulls off monochromatic white.

credit glamour magazine How to Get Away with Murder blue suits black ties pocket squares

Men of How to Get Away with Murder in eye-catching electric blue suits.

Black-and-white are so textbook. Blue tuxedos are hauteProm is your moment. There’s no competition with cobalt blue suits like the men of How to Get Away with Murder can testify in this photo, right. Dapper details include standard notched lapels, black skinny ties — definitely not to be confused with dads’ — and pocket squares to infuse color or print. Tip: don’t button the last button on your jacket!

Completely personalize your order by sending photographs of your inspiration and your measurements to us. We’ve had the most fun suiting clients in fashion similar to that of their favorite athletes or artists. Michael B. Jordan color coordinates a two-piece blue print suit with a solid blue tie. Got boldness? Consider Robert Pattinson in hunter green or Darren Criss in burgundy with a bow.

The SF Tailor doesn’t technically make adaptive clothing for teens with disabilities or different abilities, but we understand some of the challenges and all the desire to look as dashing as everyone else. Before ordering, these style hacks can maximize your assets.

We want to help you make an impression at winter formal. Check out this gallery of bespoke suits and custom tailored tuxedos. Our Facebook albums feature more made to order special occasion clothes.

Pre-Party Season with Made to Measure Tuxedos

Made to measure tuxedo by San Francisco Tailor two-tone red black peaked lapel customized red button matches red black bowtie

A fully customized tuxedo inspired by this bow tie.

Like it or not, the end of 2015 will be here and a glut of holiday parties will begin soon! From corporate holiday soirees at the Top of the Mark (Hopkins Intercontinental Hotel in Nob Hill) to legendary New Year’s Eve celebrations at The Starlight Room in Union Square, dress to kill in a made to measure tuxedo for women or men.

Design your tuxedo properly and this icon of classic, affordable elegance
will be worn much more often than once in a blue moon.

Consider midnight blue instead of black tuxedo. You could look slightly taller and make a great first impression. Initially the blue color was never an off-the-rack option, so it was obviously a custom made tuxedo. White jackets with tails are mandatory for the most formal occasions.

A single-button jacket is more versatile especially with matching grosgrain- or satin-striped tuxedo trousers. (Matching jacket and trousers mean tuxedos are technically two-piece bespoke suits.) Grosgrain has a ribbed texture and dull appearance whereas satin has a rich, smooth and lustrous / shiny look. A shawl lapel is the most stereotypical. Shorter men however like peaked lapels. Lengthened lapels heighten their wearers by drawing more attention to their faces. Notched lapels are the least formal.

photo credit blacktieguide.com Ocean's 13 featured black tuxedos peaked lapel notched lapel shawl lapel black bowties

Ocean’s Thirteen, from left to right: peaked lapels, notched lapels, satin shawl lapels

photo credit perezhilton.com John Legend turndown collar dress shirt semi-butterfly black bowtie with pointed ends

John Legend in a turndown collar, semi-butterfly with pointed ends.

A white evening shirt with a wing collar keeps your ensemble classic. Stiffly starched shirts and high standing wing collars were once conventional. Imagine the Victorian collar, or an air filter for your car. Today a wing collar is required for the strictest of White Tie affairs.

We prefer the contemporary turndown collar pleated shirt. The front features a pleated bib in addition to an open or hidden placket of buttons. Understated and more comfortable, it complies with the semi-formal dress code yet appears approachable. That’s a fantastic advantage when you want to network and/or make new acquaintances at such special occasions.

Our online styling tool allows you to order tailor made shirts as well.  Be sure French cuffs set apart your tux shirt from daily work shirts.

The (butterfly) bow tie is the most traditional, but we recommend a (semi-butterfly) thistle bow tie for a refreshing change. Never buy a pre-tied bow tie! If you didn’t adequately practice those YouTube bow tying videos, a necktie could save you … but choose a width proportional to your lapel and collar.

photo credit hisstylediary.com dress shoes black patent laced oxfords opera pumps formal dress shoes court shoes

L to R: black patent slippers, laced oxfords, opera pumps   

Finish off the bespoke formal wear with patent leather formal pumps — flat or heeled for women. Don’t happen to own those? Difficult to find them?

Well-polished Oxford dress shoes will get by. But if you prefer to get noticed, velvet will bring more luxury to your custom made suit regardless of grosgrain or satin lapels and trouser stripes.

Most typical accessories are a cummberbund to cover your waist (and any bunching or pooling of the shirt) and suspenders that button inside your trouser waist. Want others to notice your attention to detail? Pick out high contrast colors for a pocket square or a carefully chosen lapel pin to spark conversation.

photo credit thetimes.co.uk black tuxedo peaked lapels black cummerbund black bowtie rosette accessory

Justin Timberlake’s cummerbund creates a refined visual effect accentuating Carey Mulligan’s black satin neckline.

A Suit, A Second Chance at Life

‘We don’t know our own power. We don’t know how amazing we are,’ remarks Gabriel Bristol, a man who went from homelessness to head of a fast-growing customer service provider.

Know a diamond in the rough? Perhaps you overcame personal obstacles and want to give a somebody a second chance at life and a career. Rather than donate money this holiday season, sponsor a job applicant with a suit scholarship. The SF Tailor offers the lowest prices in fully custom suits online and delivers within a month. 

photo credits fox59.com and mediablackoutusa.com

Ted ‘Golden Voice’ Williams, from 2011 homeless radio announcer to 2016 presidential candidate

Smart people with troubled pasts need opportunity. They’re overlooked, so they forget their own value. They lose hope unless they’ve participated in workforce development programs and enterprises like Delancey Street Foundation and Swords to Plowshares, where graduates leave with marketable skills and a future. Charities like St. Anthony’s also try to provide interview and employment apparel — but choices can be limited, especially for clients of larger proportions.

Photo credit michelledubiel.com

Dani Johnson’s past didn’t anchor her.

Tailor made professional wear continue to build confidence for these men and women who want to thrive at work and in their personal lives. Individuals like Dani Johnson have already overcome a significant amount of adversity, and have potential to earn money, truly thrive at their jobs and become self-sufficient.

Cold hard money is what it is.
On the other hand made to measure suits are worn
as we celebrate new beginnings and milestones
like jobs, promotions, and weddings.

Email us if you’re going to present a custom tailored suit to a well-deserving beneficiary. We’d love to read a brief summary of this individual’s triumph over difficulty and what s/he plans to tackle next.

Styles that Fit your Figure

In part 3 let’s consider what style of made to measure suit compliments your body type and personal taste. If you need to revisit earlier segments, here are part 1 (advantages to personally tailored clothes) and part 2 (accurate measurements).

photo credit squarespace.com

Debate: single vent (left) versus double vent (right)

Single- or Double-breasted Jacket
with Single or Double Vents  

Single-breasted jackets with 2 buttons are common but taller men may prefer 3 buttonsBTW never button the last button!  A double-breasted jacket with six buttons might help you appear slimmer… but it can make short men look stocky or husky. Classic American style often features single vents, while classic English style features two side vents (Tuxedos have no vents, but The SF Tailor can vent them if you specify in your order.) Double vents have become popular in fully customizable suits among our American clientele. 

photo credit gurjotnewyork.com

notched lapels (left) v peaked lapels (right)

Peaked or Notched Lapels
Peaked lapels are considered more elegant than notched lapels. They appear to have longer lines and thus create a visual effect that draws attention to your face. If you stand shorter than 6’0 adding height can subconsciously increase your power and influence.

Double-breasted suits should have peaked lapels. Want notched lapels? We can accommodate your request.

Two- or Three-piece Suits
Jacket and trousers comprise the common business suit. The two-piece suit is the unspoken uniform from entry-level professionals to C-suite execs in finance, law and white collar jobs. It’s versatile to suit up the diversity of body shapes. It’s even popular from less formal weddings to vow renewal ceremonies.

photo credit tumblr.com

almost right: back should be slightly longer than the front

The addition of a waistcoat or vest makes it a more formal three-piece suit. Museum curators or university deans seem more likely to wear them. No surprise this preppy look flatters the leaner body type of scholars.

Pants or Trousers
The ‘right length’ means the waistline rests at your natural waist and the hem breaks atop your shoes. See the photo on right.

We didn’t tailor these made to measure trousers. If we did, we prefer the back of the pants to sit slightly lower than this photo shows — and just above your heels.

classic vs cutaway collarShirt
You can find shirts with a traditional collar much more easily, while a more formal cutaway collar draws more attention to your necktie or larger bow tie. The more modern cutaway looks fabulous with a full- or half- Windsor knot. It’s certainly not for the faint of heart!

Vest or Waistcoat
This optional element fits perfectly when it sits at the waistband, and thus conceals the tucked in shirt. Like the single-breasted jacket, the single-breasted vest is simple and popular. Got bravado or swagger? The double-breasted waistcoat requires it. A matching three-piece suit suggests a more formal look.

The SF Tailor specializes in fully customizable business clothes. With precise measurements and styling details that compliment your body shape, present yourself and your work with pride.

Made to Measure Fits the Best

Style is the answer to everything. A fresh way to approach a dull or dangerous thing.
To do a dangerous thing with style is what I call art.” – Charles Bukowski

Know thyself to make certain your custom made clothing fits as well as possible. In other words, get accurate measurements. In part 2 in this series of Basics for Newly Bespoke, we cover the measurements you need to order a tailored made suit. Simply knowing your height isn’t enough.

Print the measurements page before visiting a local alterations service to get your profile in minutes.

Hips lie below the waist, stomach above.

Waist: Wearing only boxers or briefs — measure your natural waistline, or the narrowest part of the torso. For most it is at the same height as the belly button (but it may be above the navel for people with long upper torsos). Your weight can change so keep one finger between the measuring tape & your body. In contrast stomach size is the widest part of your abdomen and hip size is the widest part below the waist.

Crotch: Anchor the tape at the center of your back at your waist. Run the tape between your legs, pulling comfortably at the crotch, and up to your natural waist in front. This should not fit as snuggly as a jock strap! The tape should be at the same level, front and back. In contrast thigh size measures the widest part of your upper leg.

Pant length: Without your shoes and standing on a hard floor (not a carpet or rug) hold the tape from the waist to approximately an inch above the floor.

Our website tools help you find the right shirt length.

Jacket / shirt length: See image left. Relax your arms at your sides and measure from the highest part of your shoulder, or the point next to the shirt collar, to the tip of your thumb. The tape must pass through the center of the chest. If your legs are shorter, slightly reduce the length of your jacket.

Sleeve length is the distance from one shoulder inseam down the arm to the thumb bone. Bicep size is the measurement from the widest part of your bicep muscle. Wrist size is taken when the tape is wrapped around a wrist with a finger between your body and the tape.

Shoulder width: Extend tape from one sleeve inseam to the other, along the lowest part of the shirt’s neck. In contrast measure your chest from under your arms and around the fullest part of your chest.

Breathe easily by inserting one or two fingers between your neck and the tape.

Neck Size: Keep the tape slightly loose around the middle of your neck (at the Adam’s apple). By loose, we mean insert one or two fingers between your neck and the tape.

Your body can change especially if you are doing cross-fit or extreme fitness training. If so, visit a local alterations service to get re-measured every 6-12 months.

Trust model shots or lookbooks for styles, not examples of how clothes will fit because expert use of a bulldog clip guarantees a perfect fit all the time! Part 3 will cover styles that fit your figure.

Basics for Newly Bespoke Ladies & Gents

photo credit todayschristianwoman.comIt’s September & while some are back in school, you — recent graduate — are beginning to climb the corporate ladder. Good luck, we’re here with you every step of the way!

In part 1 of 6 entries explaining the basics of tailored made clothing, we discuss 5 advantages of buying custom made suits for men and women:

1) Set your own tone: Others will take notice as your made to measure suit testifies to your attention to detail, creativity and discernment. Readymade suits rarely fit well and often need alterations, which may not leave you completely satisfied. Mass manufactured apparel doesn’t account for the asymmetry of your body. They actually call attention to a hip that’s higher than the other, or one arm longer.

2) Get the perfect fit: Tailor made professional wear will fit you so well that you’ll feel confident. Be content knowing your suit expresses yourself and it looks good. Garments are made from your exact measures. Our tailors even leave a small margin in case you gain or shed some weight in the near future. Your fit isn’t affected dramatically. This is a serious advantage over department store drones.

distinctions

The devil is in the details, from button holes & button thread color to stitches to monograms.

3) Define specifications and distinctions: Style your suit according to your taste and preference. Don’t settle for an off-the-rack suit that’s flawless in design, but in a color and/or fabric you don’t like. Worse yet, you find a superior quality fabric in your color — but the style doesn’t flatter your body type. It’s almost impossible to find the perfect combination of design, color and fit. But ordering custom made suits online easily overcomes this trifecta!

4) Less hassle: When we deliver your made to measure garments to your door in a month, you won’t need to have them altered. Bespoke clothes certainly save you time and effort, so claim that prize for time management and efficiency expertise.

5) Quality modern tailoring at an accessible price: Expect a fully customizable suit to your liking since you call all the shots including the price tag. A la carte extras let you to make elegance and luxury as affordable as you want.

If you dress for the position you want, tailor made suits have a huge competitive advantage over off-the-rack office wear. Now that you’re eager to express yourself, let’s move on to measurements and making certain your suit fits in part 2.

photo credit everyguyed.com

Dress for the job you want during interviews and daily. Will department store drones put you at a disadvantage?

3 Ways you Relate to our Customers

When some people first hear about The SF Tailor, they’re surprised: If you’re younger than age 35 and used to shopping at department stores, you’re used to trying on several jackets and pants. You pray to find two pieces that fit your body shape, are the same color, and don’t max out your credit card.

Before visiting TheSFtailor.com, our customers never imagined buying a suit could be so easy!

Young professionals frequently seek us out for the following reasons:

photo credit thesftailor.com(1) College students & recent grads want a solid color suit for first interviews and first jobs.

From economists to entry-level engineers, med students to mid-level managers, our tailor-made clothes are comfortable for infrequent suit wearers. Single-breasted, straight-waist jackets are common — but you can still express your personality through distinctions. Our turnaround time is roughly 3 weeks, pretty fast compared to machine-made, ill-fitting suits from department stores.

(2) Finance majors and salespeople usually suit up daily.
Until you earn C-level salaries and larger commissions, we specialize in bespoke suits for men and women at affordable prices. Online competitors typically charge $500-1000 per suit. That’s more than twice our price — since they’re opening permanent showrooms.

(3) Both infrequent and daily suit wearers attend special occasions as grooms, groomsmen or guests. Our blog explains a variety of formal wedding wear men and women may choose to celebrate milestones. Familiar with the comfort of our daily custom made suits, our clientele return to us for tuxedos. We are pleased to offer elegance at an accessible price.

photo credit businessinsider.comTake 5-10 minutes to get measured from a local alterations service. Then fully customize your suit from our wide range of colors, fabrics, and styles.

P.S. Send the SF Tailor your measurements and a photo to order one-of-a-kind suits. We recreated a red carpett James Bond film premiere look for a costume party. Recently we were contacted about a Heath Ledger Joker suit.

Stripe or Solid Suits

We’re celebrating National Flag Day, 14 June, with a tribute to stripe or solid suits for men and women.

Wear solid suits to interviews for your earliest jobs or internships. Your go-to suit shouldn’t draw much attention. Your interviewer wants to focus on your answers, not attire. Navy, charcoal (medium grey) or light grey is suitable for daily office wear. These colors are essential to your wardrobe. Add variation with shirts, ties and especially shoes.

Just as soldiers earn their stripes, working professionals earn their pinstripe suits. The versatility of striped suits sets you apart from rank-and-file employees. Cosmopolitan city dwellers from New York to Boston to Chicago also love the confidence the stripes connote.

Certain professions associate with the power of pinstripes include the banking and finance industry… but it’s not exclusive. Anybody from business people, doctors, attorneys, real estate agents who collaborates with upscale clients can rely on pinstripes to make a memorable impression.

* If you attend a lot of networking events, don’t forget to wear your solid suits too. You don’t want people to think the pinstripe is the only suit in your closet!

What to wear with pinstripes Be careful about stripes in your tie or shirt. Bold personalities can rock multiple stripes — but too many stripes, especially with the same distance between the stripes, looks too calculated… You know what we mean?

Mixing and matching It’s harder to wear a pinstripe jacket and trousers separately, but you can show some flexibility in less formal settings. For some variation to your daily look, pair a navy jacket with pinstripe pants… make sure the hue (or color) match. We’ve experimented with a solid charcoal jacket and trousers with charcoal pinstripes.

A note about tuxedos Why would you want to have black tie? Technically, a tuxedo is a solid suit. If you wear suits every day (and own enough) — you’re most likely have the opportunity to wear a black tie at least once or twice a year. This past blog entry takes explains formal attire.

Answers to Most Googled Fashion Questions

No surprise Google tracks all fashion and beauty queries. As an online custom tailor, your friends here at The SF Tailor have answers to prevent headaches PLUS save you time and money.

photo credit etsy.comWhat to wear to a wedding? It depends.

Remember these puzzles and wearing these glasses to decode the mystery message?
Our entry ‘What to wear to a wedding that’s where?’ explains which suits are acceptable for city, country or beach events
. If the event is more formal, skim ‘Decoded: Formal Wedding Attire’ for a quick understanding of tuxedos and phrases like black tie, black tie optional and cocktail attire

What to wear to an interview? A suit that compliments your physique and personality.

Start with a well-tailored two-piece suit for men or women, remembering these 7 essential details. Got special requests? Let us know. We’ve helped suit up job candidates who are differently abled, besides men who are taller or shorter than average. We haven’t overlooked the styling needs of petite women in suits either. Win BIG in the interviews, and then let a casual or formal workplace determine your daily look.

photo credit pinimg.comWhat to wear on a first date?
Put some thought into your selection. Impress but don’t intimidate. Confidence equally attracts women and men.

On women, a suit jacket or blazer implies power — not pushover — but your casual look says playful. Complete your statement with thoughtfully chosen shoes, handbag and accessories.

On men, a jacket is a hint of how well you clean up when you must wear a full suit. You can pair it with (1) a dress shirt, but no tie (2) a t-shirt with a crew neck or V-neck (3) even a polo shirt. We prefer to wear jeans, but khaki-colored trousers hit the beach too. Before you leave the house, ask a good, honest friend if you fail the douchebag test.


What color matches brown?
 Everything even navy and black.

For Spring / Summer months, we like a lighter monochromatic palate. In other words, choose different shades of brown. The jacket on the right is made from a light-weight fabric as well. Come Autumn / Winter seasons, the heavy tweed fabric made from wool will return. We especially love the rich, complex patterns that feature darker and lighter shades of brown.

photo credit mens-fashion.lovetoknow.com

We love San Francisco because our neighbors hail from around the world. Since 2010 The SF Tailor has served a wide range of clients who never tire of traditions, prefer the latest suit trends, or contact us with personalized requests. Preview our gallery for inspiring ideas to design your own custom-made clothes for women or men.