Tag Archives: confident

Coming Attractions: Spring 2016

Photo credit D&G via thebestfashionblog.com

photo credit thebestfashionblog.com

While the East Coast is shoveling out from snow, we on the West Coast are skiing and snowboarding down the slopes of Lake Tahoe. Thanks for letting us get out of the studio for a few weeks of recreation!

As San Franciscans prepare for Chinese New Year festivities next month, we’re pleased to present you a preview of Spring 2016 and style trends:

Monochromatic white is the dark horse candidate.
Shake off the dark colors associated with winter. March in to the Spring season with confidence. White on white is high-maintenance but looks dapper. Dial it down by pairing a gray custom fit jacket with white tailored trousers.

men's single breasted rain coat macintosh raincoat outerwear

photo credit wellbuiltstyle.com


Remember grandpa with retro style raincoats.
You do realize not everybody or every body shape looks good in a double breasted suit. (Scan this past blog entry for a refresher on body shape and flattering fashion.) Unfortunately much outerwear isn’t designed with you in mind. Our favorite trench coats are double-breasted.

In contrast, almost all of us look fantastic in single-breasted jackets and coats. After deliberately selecting your bespoke 3-piece suit, an ill-fitting raincoat shouldn’t be your downfall. Shed heavier coats and slip into lightweight, retro grandpa-inspired trench coats. We recommend avoiding belts, especially if you’re lean.

bespoke striped suits for men make a bigger impact than ever

photo credit fashionmenswear.com

Pjs can’t have all the fun; wear bespoke striped suits.
Pinstripes are linked to powerful professions, from banking and finance to law and order. But fans of personally tailored clothing are enthusiastically embracing this trend in more lavish and exaggerated ways a la John Varvartos.

Find it hard to rock that edgy look in your office or line of work? No problem. Under your discreet coat during your commute, maintain a polished and professional image with this tailor-made striped suit, pictured to the left. The black color remains a safe bet; the higher stripe count adds texture suggesting a depth and complexity to your character.


Preview our catalog of light-weight fabrics
 to design your own one-of-a-kind suits and outerwear as well.

Since 2010 The SF Tailor has served a wide range of clients who never tire of traditions, prefer the latest suit trends, or contact us with personalized requests. View our gallery for inspiration or submit photos for distinctly special requests.

Hot Fashion for Winter Formal

photo credit DJDM/WENN.com via skim.gs Mark Ballas grey suit Derek Hough black suit tailored

Mark Ballas and Derek Hough on the town, off the DWTS dancefloor.

Want to dance with the stars at your Winter Formal or Prom?

The SF Tailor has these hot styles for the cold season, so you look as good at the dance as these suits on the red carpets. Our clients feel confident wearing made to measure suits and customized tuxedos to fit their own swagger — not something generic off carousels from the mall.

Whether your special event is semi-formal (suit OK) or black tie (tux required) you’ll want well-made, affordable clothes you can keep after the occasion. Do you really want to rent? Resent the idea of another person showing up in the exact same outfit?

Above, Mark Ballas sports a gray two-piece suit with a peaked lapel. The white shirt creates a strong contrast for his black and white-striped tie to pop. It’s a much less formal look. We prefer Zac Efron in a three-piece charcoal gray suit and stripped tie; layering with a vest adds sophistication. Derek Hough’s intense ensemble is a darker side we don’t usually see: Monochromatic black suit, shirt and solid color tie demand all eyes are on him. Jayden Smith pulls off monochromatic white.

credit glamour magazine How to Get Away with Murder blue suits black ties pocket squares

Men of How to Get Away with Murder in eye-catching electric blue suits.

Black-and-white are so textbook. Blue tuxedos are hauteProm is your moment. There’s no competition with cobalt blue suits like the men of How to Get Away with Murder can testify in this photo, right. Dapper details include standard notched lapels, black skinny ties — definitely not to be confused with dads’ — and pocket squares to infuse color or print. Tip: don’t button the last button on your jacket!

Completely personalize your order by sending photographs of your inspiration and your measurements to us. We’ve had the most fun suiting clients in fashion similar to that of their favorite athletes or artists. Michael B. Jordan color coordinates a two-piece blue print suit with a solid blue tie. Got boldness? Consider Robert Pattinson in hunter green or Darren Criss in burgundy with a bow.

The SF Tailor doesn’t technically make adaptive clothing for teens with disabilities or different abilities, but we understand some of the challenges and all the desire to look as dashing as everyone else. Before ordering, these style hacks can maximize your assets.

We want to help you make an impression at winter formal. Check out this gallery of bespoke suits and custom tailored tuxedos. Our Facebook albums feature more made to order special occasion clothes.

Tailor Yourself to Job Interviews

The bottom line is to feel confident from a smart-fitting suit and its first impression,
to your interview responses and your performance on the job.

A well-cut suit should flatter your frame by broadening your shoulders and minding your midsection. This signals great job-seeking traits like attention to detail and self-confidence. For any job interview, be sure you are prepared and look polished.

photo credit primermagazine.com How should my suit jacket fit? Avoid shoulder divots.

How should my suit jacket fit? Avoid shoulder divots.

Check the fit. Does the top button of your jacket sit just above your naval? Do sleeves end where your thumb and wrist meet? Does the shoulder seam sit smoothly at the corner of your shoulder? Or is  a weird divot created because the shoulder width is incorrect? Finally does the jacket completely cover your butt, and no more?

 

Custom tailored medium grey suit jacket by San Francisco Tailor paired with versatile blue paisley necktie

A medium grey bespoke suit is extremely versatile.

Color consistent with industry? A tailor made medium or dark grey suit looks more youthful than a stark black suit. In fact it’s much more versatile and a great candidate for all of those important appointments — from job interviews to daily office wear to networking events after work. Most of all, it’s still industry appropriate.

For a contemporary take on the navy suit, consider a bespoke jacket that’s single-breasted with notched lapels. It’s sure to consistently look good even with a white dress shirt, a textured tie and brown brogue dress shoes. Complement its ordinary color with warm tones of yellow, orange and red or stay cool during winter months with grey and other shades of blue as well as purple.

 

photo credit adamlamberttv.blogspot.ca Printed blue shirt under navy suit jacket great for artistic type job interviews

Vocalist Adam Lambert in a printed shirt with various blue shades on The Talk with host Sharon Osbourne.

Wearing a standard issue suit to an interview for a creative job could mute your personality and je ne sais quoi. Hiding what makes your unique can hurt your chances at landing that job.

Color blocking separate top and bottoms is oft chosen by media, advertising, and fashion professionals. Printed shirts are also an alternative to displaying your style. Geometric or subtle floral prints can exhibit range of thinking from hard and analytical to soft and expressive.

We make elegance affordable & job promotion accessible as you pay off loans or mortgages.

Made to measure suits can be pricey. Don’t worry! Without the overhead of a brick and mortar shop or webcam body measurements, we offer the lowest prices in fully personalized suits online. You’ll even have money left to splurge. Book yourself an appointment with the hairdresser, or purchase a tie clip — a small but noticeable accessory to set you apart.

Pre-Party Season with Made to Measure Tuxedos

Made to measure tuxedo by San Francisco Tailor two-tone red black peaked lapel customized red button matches red black bowtie

A fully customized tuxedo inspired by this bow tie.

Like it or not, the end of 2015 will be here and a glut of holiday parties will begin soon! From corporate holiday soirees at the Top of the Mark (Hopkins Intercontinental Hotel in Nob Hill) to legendary New Year’s Eve celebrations at The Starlight Room in Union Square, dress to kill in a made to measure tuxedo for women or men.

Design your tuxedo properly and this icon of classic, affordable elegance
will be worn much more often than once in a blue moon.

Consider midnight blue instead of black tuxedo. You could look slightly taller and make a great first impression. Initially the blue color was never an off-the-rack option, so it was obviously a custom made tuxedo. White jackets with tails are mandatory for the most formal occasions.

A single-button jacket is more versatile especially with matching grosgrain- or satin-striped tuxedo trousers. (Matching jacket and trousers mean tuxedos are technically two-piece bespoke suits.) Grosgrain has a ribbed texture and dull appearance whereas satin has a rich, smooth and lustrous / shiny look. A shawl lapel is the most stereotypical. Shorter men however like peaked lapels. Lengthened lapels heighten their wearers by drawing more attention to their faces. Notched lapels are the least formal.

photo credit blacktieguide.com Ocean's 13 featured black tuxedos peaked lapel notched lapel shawl lapel black bowties

Ocean’s Thirteen, from left to right: peaked lapels, notched lapels, satin shawl lapels

photo credit perezhilton.com John Legend turndown collar dress shirt semi-butterfly black bowtie with pointed ends

John Legend in a turndown collar, semi-butterfly with pointed ends.

A white evening shirt with a wing collar keeps your ensemble classic. Stiffly starched shirts and high standing wing collars were once conventional. Imagine the Victorian collar, or an air filter for your car. Today a wing collar is required for the strictest of White Tie affairs.

We prefer the contemporary turndown collar pleated shirt. The front features a pleated bib in addition to an open or hidden placket of buttons. Understated and more comfortable, it complies with the semi-formal dress code yet appears approachable. That’s a fantastic advantage when you want to network and/or make new acquaintances at such special occasions.

Our online styling tool allows you to order tailor made shirts as well.  Be sure French cuffs set apart your tux shirt from daily work shirts.

The (butterfly) bow tie is the most traditional, but we recommend a (semi-butterfly) thistle bow tie for a refreshing change. Never buy a pre-tied bow tie! If you didn’t adequately practice those YouTube bow tying videos, a necktie could save you … but choose a width proportional to your lapel and collar.

photo credit hisstylediary.com dress shoes black patent laced oxfords opera pumps formal dress shoes court shoes

L to R: black patent slippers, laced oxfords, opera pumps   

Finish off the bespoke formal wear with patent leather formal pumps — flat or heeled for women. Don’t happen to own those? Difficult to find them?

Well-polished Oxford dress shoes will get by. But if you prefer to get noticed, velvet will bring more luxury to your custom made suit regardless of grosgrain or satin lapels and trouser stripes.

Most typical accessories are a cummberbund to cover your waist (and any bunching or pooling of the shirt) and suspenders that button inside your trouser waist. Want others to notice your attention to detail? Pick out high contrast colors for a pocket square or a carefully chosen lapel pin to spark conversation.

photo credit thetimes.co.uk black tuxedo peaked lapels black cummerbund black bowtie rosette accessory

Justin Timberlake’s cummerbund creates a refined visual effect accentuating Carey Mulligan’s black satin neckline.

A Suit, A Second Chance at Life

‘We don’t know our own power. We don’t know how amazing we are,’ remarks Gabriel Bristol, a man who went from homelessness to head of a fast-growing customer service provider.

Know a diamond in the rough? Perhaps you overcame personal obstacles and want to give a somebody a second chance at life and a career. Rather than donate money this holiday season, sponsor a job applicant with a suit scholarship. The SF Tailor offers the lowest prices in fully custom suits online and delivers within a month. 

photo credits fox59.com and mediablackoutusa.com

Ted ‘Golden Voice’ Williams, from 2011 homeless radio announcer to 2016 presidential candidate

Smart people with troubled pasts need opportunity. They’re overlooked, so they forget their own value. They lose hope unless they’ve participated in workforce development programs and enterprises like Delancey Street Foundation and Swords to Plowshares, where graduates leave with marketable skills and a future. Charities like St. Anthony’s also try to provide interview and employment apparel — but choices can be limited, especially for clients of larger proportions.

Photo credit michelledubiel.com

Dani Johnson’s past didn’t anchor her.

Tailor made professional wear continue to build confidence for these men and women who want to thrive at work and in their personal lives. Individuals like Dani Johnson have already overcome a significant amount of adversity, and have potential to earn money, truly thrive at their jobs and become self-sufficient.

Cold hard money is what it is.
On the other hand made to measure suits are worn
as we celebrate new beginnings and milestones
like jobs, promotions, and weddings.

Email us if you’re going to present a custom tailored suit to a well-deserving beneficiary. We’d love to read a brief summary of this individual’s triumph over difficulty and what s/he plans to tackle next.

Mixing Patterns & Prints

photo credit trashness.com

Try strong, bold stripes not fat stripes f you have a small frame in particular.

Winning if you’ve reached this level in our Basics for Newly Bespoke series! In this sixth and final section, pattern-mixing will be the most ambitious to master. More risky than matching colors, the rewards add a rich new dimension to your personal style — further elevating your elegance, confidence and influence.

The first rule of pattern and print mixing is express yourself.
Vary the size of the pattern but unify with color.

Keep the Same Pattern
Wear checks with checks, or stripes on stripes BUT vary the size or width of the pattern. Mind your stature when choosing a stripe. Beginners test waters with a navy pinstripe suit and a fine striped shirt. A solid or diagonal striped tie pulls such a powerful look together. Birdseye & nailhead offer equally conservative aesthetics as stripes, yet introduce texture. Pair them with flat textures like solid shirts and ties.

Herringbone‘s distinctive V-shaped weave makes for a far more eye-catching suit as the zigzag pattern picks up light. Made to measure suits in this fabric appear to be a solid color from a distance. Upon closer look, the pattern is readily recognizable and reveals sophistication.

photo credit pinterest.com

The gray color unifies this checkered jacket and striped shirt.

Choose a Recurring Color
The same rules regarding color still apply. Go ahead and check your notes since this isn’t a closed-book quiz!

Remember any monochromatic combination is a safe bet. Pair two colorful prints or patterns with a common color. We’ve chosen a gray checkered jacket and striped shirt to illustrate our point. It’s moderate… yet pushes the envelope for those who work in legal as well as banking and finance.

If you’ve mastered this and your style slightly stagnates, dare to pair stripes and checks in complementary colors. We strongly recommend this ensemble for summer wedding guests: glen check or plaid suit, blue gingham shirt, even the woven orange tie has a checkered texture.

photo credit suitupdressup.wordpress.com

Advanced pattern & color mixing: gingham shirt plus tie & pocket square accentuate blue & orange in suit.

photo credit suitupdressup.wordpress.comTry Mixing Three Patterns: All patterns or prints should be relatively close in size. Proportions matter. Attempt the above look but pair with a silk striped necktie instead of a solid textured one. Alternatively select two elements like a violet & white polka dot tie and a lilac gingham shirt, and wed them with a brown pinstripe suit. The patterns achieve fashion zen based on a split-complementary color code.

Fine Fashion Pairings: Shirts & Ties

Following Part 1 (intro) 2 (measurements) and 3 (styles) we pair shirts and ties in Part 4 of what you need to know if you’re new to bespoke suits online: Every professional wardrobe ought to have a classic white dress shirt and a blue oxford shirt. Beyond that, take calculated risks and let your confidence shine through your unique pairing of shirts and ties. For instance CHUNKY ties, not skinny ties, now suggest a more youthful look. Meanwhile knit ties, slightly retro and becoming popular again, are casual.

When you walk into a room, your shirt and tie are a powerful focal point.
So how do you ante up? Got a license to kill in your shirt & tie?

Photo credit lookastic.comWe chose single-breasted jackets because they’re versatile, so you can focus on color combos. Use a color wheel if you’re a maverick at matching solid colors. The tie should be richer in color than the shirt. When it effectively creates a nice contrast, it draws positive attention to your face. Good eye contact leads to better communication.

Next, experiment with a polka dot tie against a standard blue shirt — or vice versa as Joseph Gordon-Levitt sports this marine blue satin tie against a sea of white and burgundy. Blue and red make a classic (complementary) color combo especially in winter, when everybody else wears gray and black.

Should you choose a stripped or patterned tie, the key is to match the color of your shirt with a color in that pattern. We like this particular example for its versatility with a blue or white shirt.

photo credit pinterest.comAccent your fashion with striped and checkered shirts. These patterns aren’t classics per se, but most have one or two of these shirts in their closet. Blue stripes are the most common.

Right photo: We’ve chosen a lilac stripped shirt to highlight the same light purple color in the necktie. Keep patterns minimal till you’ve mastered patterns. We’ll talk more about prints in part 5. Note how the brushed steel tie clip brings the tie and light gray suit together. The length of the clip should be 3/4 the width of the tie.

Close up, a micro polka dot printed tie may seem busy against a slate gray striped shirt. Standing at a respectful distance of personal space, the tie seems black and the combo pays off well for bankers and lawyers with a moderate flare for fashion.

Looking to better understand what your dress shirt implicitly says about your ambition and character? Learn how a custom made shirt can make a positive impression and impact your future.

Styles that Fit your Figure

In part 3 let’s consider what style of made to measure suit compliments your body type and personal taste. If you need to revisit earlier segments, here are part 1 (advantages to personally tailored clothes) and part 2 (accurate measurements).

photo credit squarespace.com

Debate: single vent (left) versus double vent (right)

Single- or Double-breasted Jacket
with Single or Double Vents  

Single-breasted jackets with 2 buttons are common but taller men may prefer 3 buttonsBTW never button the last button!  A double-breasted jacket with six buttons might help you appear slimmer… but it can make short men look stocky or husky. Classic American style often features single vents, while classic English style features two side vents (Tuxedos have no vents, but The SF Tailor can vent them if you specify in your order.) Double vents have become popular in fully customizable suits among our American clientele. 

photo credit gurjotnewyork.com

notched lapels (left) v peaked lapels (right)

Peaked or Notched Lapels
Peaked lapels are considered more elegant than notched lapels. They appear to have longer lines and thus create a visual effect that draws attention to your face. If you stand shorter than 6’0 adding height can subconsciously increase your power and influence.

Double-breasted suits should have peaked lapels. Want notched lapels? We can accommodate your request.

Two- or Three-piece Suits
Jacket and trousers comprise the common business suit. The two-piece suit is the unspoken uniform from entry-level professionals to C-suite execs in finance, law and white collar jobs. It’s versatile to suit up the diversity of body shapes. It’s even popular from less formal weddings to vow renewal ceremonies.

photo credit tumblr.com

almost right: back should be slightly longer than the front

The addition of a waistcoat or vest makes it a more formal three-piece suit. Museum curators or university deans seem more likely to wear them. No surprise this preppy look flatters the leaner body type of scholars.

Pants or Trousers
The ‘right length’ means the waistline rests at your natural waist and the hem breaks atop your shoes. See the photo on right.

We didn’t tailor these made to measure trousers. If we did, we prefer the back of the pants to sit slightly lower than this photo shows — and just above your heels.

classic vs cutaway collarShirt
You can find shirts with a traditional collar much more easily, while a more formal cutaway collar draws more attention to your necktie or larger bow tie. The more modern cutaway looks fabulous with a full- or half- Windsor knot. It’s certainly not for the faint of heart!

Vest or Waistcoat
This optional element fits perfectly when it sits at the waistband, and thus conceals the tucked in shirt. Like the single-breasted jacket, the single-breasted vest is simple and popular. Got bravado or swagger? The double-breasted waistcoat requires it. A matching three-piece suit suggests a more formal look.

The SF Tailor specializes in fully customizable business clothes. With precise measurements and styling details that compliment your body shape, present yourself and your work with pride.

Basics for Newly Bespoke Ladies & Gents

photo credit todayschristianwoman.comIt’s September & while some are back in school, you — recent graduate — are beginning to climb the corporate ladder. Good luck, we’re here with you every step of the way!

In part 1 of 6 entries explaining the basics of tailored made clothing, we discuss 5 advantages of buying custom made suits for men and women:

1) Set your own tone: Others will take notice as your made to measure suit testifies to your attention to detail, creativity and discernment. Readymade suits rarely fit well and often need alterations, which may not leave you completely satisfied. Mass manufactured apparel doesn’t account for the asymmetry of your body. They actually call attention to a hip that’s higher than the other, or one arm longer.

2) Get the perfect fit: Tailor made professional wear will fit you so well that you’ll feel confident. Be content knowing your suit expresses yourself and it looks good. Garments are made from your exact measures. Our tailors even leave a small margin in case you gain or shed some weight in the near future. Your fit isn’t affected dramatically. This is a serious advantage over department store drones.

distinctions

The devil is in the details, from button holes & button thread color to stitches to monograms.

3) Define specifications and distinctions: Style your suit according to your taste and preference. Don’t settle for an off-the-rack suit that’s flawless in design, but in a color and/or fabric you don’t like. Worse yet, you find a superior quality fabric in your color — but the style doesn’t flatter your body type. It’s almost impossible to find the perfect combination of design, color and fit. But ordering custom made suits online easily overcomes this trifecta!

4) Less hassle: When we deliver your made to measure garments to your door in a month, you won’t need to have them altered. Bespoke clothes certainly save you time and effort, so claim that prize for time management and efficiency expertise.

5) Quality modern tailoring at an accessible price: Expect a fully customizable suit to your liking since you call all the shots including the price tag. A la carte extras let you to make elegance and luxury as affordable as you want.

If you dress for the position you want, tailor made suits have a huge competitive advantage over off-the-rack office wear. Now that you’re eager to express yourself, let’s move on to measurements and making certain your suit fits in part 2.

photo credit everyguyed.com

Dress for the job you want during interviews and daily. Will department store drones put you at a disadvantage?

Dapper but Not Disabled

photo credit trustedpartner.comDear SF Tailor,

 

After a car accident, I faced several physical challenges and depression. With the support of family and friends, I focused on surviving. And as long as I’ve had my wheelchair, I’ve known what I’m capable of doing — but other people don’t know til they get to know me.

This summer the only disappointment from my internship was suiting up for work. It was first time I had to wear professional clothes, which didn’t fit me well. I felt self-conscious. I want to look good and I want people to look at my wardrobe, not my wheelchair.  

After I cross the graduation stage this December, I want to look as confident as I feel during job interviews and on the job. — Dapper but Not Disabled in Denver

Dear Dapper but Not Disabled in Denver,

First, thanks for contacting us. We’re inspired by the obstacles you’ve overcome during physical recovery.

Second, congrats on graduation! Don’t be anxious about interviews. We are happy to custom tailor a suit, so you make a great first impression — and always look your best. Since fit and proportion is critical, measurements should be taken in your chair, not lying down. Then you can use our online tools to customize your 2-piece bespoke suit.

Your body may be beyond your control, but your sense of style isn’t. In fact it becomes more meaningful and essential in retaining your dignity. — Fiona Jarvis

Here are 4 style hacks to draw eyes to your face, so people focus on what you say:

    • Trousers with broad cuffs demonstrate your attention to detail.
      Ignoring your ankles can suggest you’re sloppy and inattentive. Because you haven’t always used a wheelchair, note that sitting trousers are 3-4 inches longer than standard trousers. So you may want to add 3 inches to a previous length of up to 31 inches, 4 inches for a previous length of 33 inches or longer.
    • A vest or waistcoat can hide your waistline, showing off a broad chest and shoulders.
      These physical assets project strength and confidence.

Embrace who you are. Be comfortable with your character. Job applicants tailor their talking points to their skills, talents and potential. By law interviewers cannot ask you about your disability. Why not impress them and bring a functional disability statement; the American Foundation for the Blind recommends these tips.

Again we appreciate the privilege to dress you. Good luck with the job search!

— The SF Tailor