Category Archives: bespoke coats

Coming Attractions: Spring 2016

Photo credit D&G via thebestfashionblog.com

photo credit thebestfashionblog.com

While the East Coast is shoveling out from snow, we on the West Coast are skiing and snowboarding down the slopes of Lake Tahoe. Thanks for letting us get out of the studio for a few weeks of recreation!

As San Franciscans prepare for Chinese New Year festivities next month, we’re pleased to present you a preview of Spring 2016 and style trends:

Monochromatic white is the dark horse candidate.
Shake off the dark colors associated with winter. March in to the Spring season with confidence. White on white is high-maintenance but looks dapper. Dial it down by pairing a gray custom fit jacket with white tailored trousers.

men's single breasted rain coat macintosh raincoat outerwear

photo credit wellbuiltstyle.com


Remember grandpa with retro style raincoats.
You do realize not everybody or every body shape looks good in a double breasted suit. (Scan this past blog entry for a refresher on body shape and flattering fashion.) Unfortunately much outerwear isn’t designed with you in mind. Our favorite trench coats are double-breasted.

In contrast, almost all of us look fantastic in single-breasted jackets and coats. After deliberately selecting your bespoke 3-piece suit, an ill-fitting raincoat shouldn’t be your downfall. Shed heavier coats and slip into lightweight, retro grandpa-inspired trench coats. We recommend avoiding belts, especially if you’re lean.

bespoke striped suits for men make a bigger impact than ever

photo credit fashionmenswear.com

Pjs can’t have all the fun; wear bespoke striped suits.
Pinstripes are linked to powerful professions, from banking and finance to law and order. But fans of personally tailored clothing are enthusiastically embracing this trend in more lavish and exaggerated ways a la John Varvartos.

Find it hard to rock that edgy look in your office or line of work? No problem. Under your discreet coat during your commute, maintain a polished and professional image with this tailor-made striped suit, pictured to the left. The black color remains a safe bet; the higher stripe count adds texture suggesting a depth and complexity to your character.


Preview our catalog of light-weight fabrics
 to design your own one-of-a-kind suits and outerwear as well.

Since 2010 The SF Tailor has served a wide range of clients who never tire of traditions, prefer the latest suit trends, or contact us with personalized requests. View our gallery for inspiration or submit photos for distinctly special requests.

Classic Coats in Bold Colors, Prints, Patterns

custom tailored camel color men's wool coat by San Francisco TailorBespoke tailoring for men and women is stylish year-round, especially with coat season. We’ve got 5 stylish coats people are excitedly talking about this autumn.

Peacoat
A made to measure classic wool peacoat is as reliable as your best friend. With long lines, it quickly adds sophistication to any wardrobe. Black is always fashionable. This fall don’t leave home without a beige/camel or winter white peacoat. Enjoy those double takes as you make heads turn with the combination of a refreshing color and classic style. Keep warm during your commute — and do it in style! Great over your bespoke pant suits.

Double­ Breasted
The double­-breasted coat with its iconic two-columns of buttons remains trendy with the addition of bright colors as well as traditional cut or style. This season — if attention is what  you’re after — stop traffic in red, pumpkin or gold like the color of the falling leaves. Prefer dark basic colors but still want to WOW the public? We like the black and white Alabama houndstooth print. Women enjoy this coat with tailored suits and tall boots. Average and shorter-than-average individuals usually have four buttons; taller people can accommodate six buttons.

Military Style
Military style coats are not exclusively for men any longer. Women have adopted the military  coat much like the biker jacket. No surprise this outerwear trend is here to stay. It’s coveted for both its form and function. Again darker colors are more common, but The SF Tailor would love the opportunity to fulfill your order for a personalized military coat in a lighter color.

Women's Trench Coat fits perfectly when it's made to measure to your sizeTrench
Pictured left, a classic trench coat NEVER goes out of style. It’s light weight lets you easily transition from fall to winter… and again as winter thaws into spring. Instead of the predictable all ­black ensemble, liven things up. Choose colors that pop such as emerald green. This dandelion gold trench lifts our spirits when the weather is overcast or gloomy. Petite ladies like long black sweaters, leggings and ballet flats.

Duffle Coat
A street-­style staple, the duffle coat can be worn with almost anything during the fall/winter seasons. Women conveniently pair this outerwear item with cream colored custom suits or a casual look with jeans.

Bespoke tailoring isn’t restricted to suits and tuxedos. The cold season keeps up fairly busy with returning clients ordering these classic coats in unique fabrics and colors including lining.

A Suit, A Second Chance at Life

‘We don’t know our own power. We don’t know how amazing we are,’ remarks Gabriel Bristol, a man who went from homelessness to head of a fast-growing customer service provider.

Know a diamond in the rough? Perhaps you overcame personal obstacles and want to give a somebody a second chance at life and a career. Rather than donate money this holiday season, sponsor a job applicant with a suit scholarship. The SF Tailor offers the lowest prices in fully custom suits online and delivers within a month. 

photo credits fox59.com and mediablackoutusa.com

Ted ‘Golden Voice’ Williams, from 2011 homeless radio announcer to 2016 presidential candidate

Smart people with troubled pasts need opportunity. They’re overlooked, so they forget their own value. They lose hope unless they’ve participated in workforce development programs and enterprises like Delancey Street Foundation and Swords to Plowshares, where graduates leave with marketable skills and a future. Charities like St. Anthony’s also try to provide interview and employment apparel — but choices can be limited, especially for clients of larger proportions.

Photo credit michelledubiel.com

Dani Johnson’s past didn’t anchor her.

Tailor made professional wear continue to build confidence for these men and women who want to thrive at work and in their personal lives. Individuals like Dani Johnson have already overcome a significant amount of adversity, and have potential to earn money, truly thrive at their jobs and become self-sufficient.

Cold hard money is what it is.
On the other hand made to measure suits are worn
as we celebrate new beginnings and milestones
like jobs, promotions, and weddings.

Email us if you’re going to present a custom tailored suit to a well-deserving beneficiary. We’d love to read a brief summary of this individual’s triumph over difficulty and what s/he plans to tackle next.

Made to Measure Fits the Best

Style is the answer to everything. A fresh way to approach a dull or dangerous thing.
To do a dangerous thing with style is what I call art.” – Charles Bukowski

Know thyself to make certain your custom made clothing fits as well as possible. In other words, get accurate measurements. In part 2 in this series of Basics for Newly Bespoke, we cover the measurements you need to order a tailored made suit. Simply knowing your height isn’t enough.

Print the measurements page before visiting a local alterations service to get your profile in minutes.

Hips lie below the waist, stomach above.

Waist: Wearing only boxers or briefs — measure your natural waistline, or the narrowest part of the torso. For most it is at the same height as the belly button (but it may be above the navel for people with long upper torsos). Your weight can change so keep one finger between the measuring tape & your body. In contrast stomach size is the widest part of your abdomen and hip size is the widest part below the waist.

Crotch: Anchor the tape at the center of your back at your waist. Run the tape between your legs, pulling comfortably at the crotch, and up to your natural waist in front. This should not fit as snuggly as a jock strap! The tape should be at the same level, front and back. In contrast thigh size measures the widest part of your upper leg.

Pant length: Without your shoes and standing on a hard floor (not a carpet or rug) hold the tape from the waist to approximately an inch above the floor.

Our website tools help you find the right shirt length.

Jacket / shirt length: See image left. Relax your arms at your sides and measure from the highest part of your shoulder, or the point next to the shirt collar, to the tip of your thumb. The tape must pass through the center of the chest. If your legs are shorter, slightly reduce the length of your jacket.

Sleeve length is the distance from one shoulder inseam down the arm to the thumb bone. Bicep size is the measurement from the widest part of your bicep muscle. Wrist size is taken when the tape is wrapped around a wrist with a finger between your body and the tape.

Shoulder width: Extend tape from one sleeve inseam to the other, along the lowest part of the shirt’s neck. In contrast measure your chest from under your arms and around the fullest part of your chest.

Breathe easily by inserting one or two fingers between your neck and the tape.

Neck Size: Keep the tape slightly loose around the middle of your neck (at the Adam’s apple). By loose, we mean insert one or two fingers between your neck and the tape.

Your body can change especially if you are doing cross-fit or extreme fitness training. If so, visit a local alterations service to get re-measured every 6-12 months.

Trust model shots or lookbooks for styles, not examples of how clothes will fit because expert use of a bulldog clip guarantees a perfect fit all the time! Part 3 will cover styles that fit your figure.

Fall 2015: Runway Couture to Office Corridor

Fall 2015 is here, so let’s review our notes from February and the front row of New York Fashion Week. As always look polished and put together — even if you don’t have a team of personal stylists following you.

photo credit fashionedits.comBedazzled, Bejeweled Blazers
A well-fit suit jacket (especially in a deep charcoal grey) remains an office staple, i.e. classic. Designers introduced slits, jewels and floral patterns to put off thoughts of winter’s drab dark colors. Just beware how bedazzled your blazer looks in the office. Work in a more under-stated, minimalist environment? Add bling via accessories from rings and clutches to lapel pins and pocket squares.

Vive la France! Skinny (Pants) Banned
In April, France banned ultra thin, super skinny models to discourage anorexia. We support this revolution. Designers united to emphasize relaxed-fitting women’s trousers besides wide-legged, free-flowing pants (but not quite bell-bottoms). In spite of taking inspiration from menswear, bold feminine colors like brown, red and cream dominated more than a handful of collections.

Trench Coat Still Vogue, Now in Chic Colors
Like suit jackets, the trench coat never seems to go out of style. It’s light weight is appropriate for mild autumn temperatures from San Francisco to New York City. Taking a cue from Mother Nature, look for falling folliage / leafy tones like brown, orange and tan… or dare to wear chalk, a derivative of white.

A ‘truly unisex color palette’ has emerged, but your friends at The SF Tailor maintain a tradition of high quality clothes made to your measurements. Leave boxy, mass produced suits hanging on racks at the department stores. Personalize your professional wear as your preview our catalog of light-weight fabrics.

The Shortlist Strategy

photo credit trnedhunterstatic.com

You want to make the shortlist when you’re nominated for an Academy Award or jockeying for a job promotion. However if you stand under 6 foot tall, you’re still in remarkably successful company from Michael J. Fox to George Clooney. The SF Tailor offers 4 tips to tailor suits to smaller measurements and change public perception of your stature, so you stand tall and proud.

Women interested in custom made suits should consider these specific suggestions.

photo credit cdnds.netSelect a Single Color Scheme
Choose a monochrome color palette, but vary shades of the same color to create an illusion of height: the darker, the better. Light shades for your top half draw eyes up, dark ones for your lower torso lengthen. BEWARE: black shortens you like this scene from Mission Impossible. Custom camel color coats or bespoke blue tuxedos are handsome and impressive alternatives.

Wear Trousers at your Waist
Weekend and leisure sportswear might have you sagging your pants… but trust us, wear trousers at your natural waistline. Consider a smaller trouser rise too. That distance from the middle of the crotch seam to the top of the waistband will make your legs will look longer.

Button and Bulk up your Better Half
If you exercise and have built up your shoulders, this calls attention to your top half. Keep your suit jacket buttoned — but not the last button! — streamlines your look. You appear slimmer and taller when your chest looks bigger and your waist smaller. Make sure your top button is above your navel (bellybutton), and think about a shorter cut jacket. This earlier entry provides more info on showing off your muscles when suiting up.

photo credit hesinvogue.com

RDJ: a tall drink of water as Sherlock Holmes or Iron Man Tony Stark. Note: Jacket buttoned and above the navel. Trousers rest at his waistline, and accessories (sunglasses & bow tie, hap, lapel pin) draw eyes to his face.

Cuff Shirt Sleeves, and Keep Hems at your Hip
We’re creating beneficial optical illusions. So despite the weather, a long-sleeved shirt with rolled cuffs makes your arms (and body) seem longer. Tuck in that button down shirt to use that waistline to your advantage. When wearing un-tucked shirts, keep hemlines at your hipbone. Longer shirts remind us of girlfriends in nightshirts… not the professional look you envisioned, right?

Quick and simple: avoid focusing attention below your chest. Avoid drawing attention to big watches, belts or shoes. Make simpler, darker choices for your lower torso.

Coming Attractions: Fall 2015

We can’t get enough sun and summer dress shirts… but that’s not stopping us from previewing Fall 2015 and its coming attractions.

photo credit pinterest.comGREEN is the new brown.
Pair it with navy, black or brown. Army green is our diplomatic compromise in the cold war between summer’s bright colors and winter’s dark hues. If a whole suit seems too trendy or bold — or if t reminds you of Duck Dynasty — we have some workable alternatives:

Mix a jacket with tweed trousers or vice-versa, a custom-made tweed jacket with green tailored trousers. Broker power with a green dress shirt under a black suit. A tie (and pocket square) in this color upgrades your classic, conservative suit to contemporary.

Go the WHOLE nine yards in print.
From Alexander Wang to Valentino, suits are in full effect: jacket, trousers, even the shirt are the same pattern.Too much awesome for you?  Order a bespoke 3-piece suit: jacket, vest or waistcoat, and trousers.    

photo credit fashionbeans.comDouble down on outerwear.
Despite our home base in California, San Francisco has a surprisingly mild climate. Temps only spike in September and October. So we have a big collection of outerwear, and enthusiastically embrace this trend.

We love the look (and psychological security) of a Levi’s denim jacket… under a tailor-made wool coat. Keep looking polished and professional during your commute, yet prepared for a casual happy hour or coffee-date with your comrades.

Preview our catalog of light-weight fabrics to design your own one-of-a-kind jacket as well. We particularly like rich, complex patterns under those dark, long coats.

Since 2010 The SF Tailor has served a wide range of clients who never tire of traditions, prefer the latest suit trends, or contact us with personalized requests. Preview our gallery for inspiring ideas to design your own custom-made clothes for women and men.

Grey Skies, Grey Suits, and Silver Foxes

Photo credit MenStyleFashion.comAs James Bond fans, the dark winter grey skies of Scotland seen in the SkyFall film popularized grey suits for men of all ages.

Previously we had some clients with greying hair — even salt and pepper beards — shy away from the color. However these distinguished silver foxes look most handsome in custom made suits.

We may not be waiting for snow to melt, but we’re ready for spring… yet holding onto this grey suit trend. The color symbolizes power. It’s particularly effective during business meetings and negotiations. If you feel the same way, we’re share these 3 simple suggestions with you.

Photo credit MenStyleFashion.com

Layer

Once you arrive at the office, shed your overcoat. Your 2-piece or 3-piece suit will keep you warm, stylish and ever confident to collaborate with clients or colleagues.

Color

Don’t be afraid to mix colors like this brown coat and grey suit. The blend’s a nice reminder of brisk autumn days turning into winter at Thanksgiving. Blue and grey look smart together too.

As noted, your bespoke grey suit can be a go-to for appointments. (Reserve that Darth Vader black power suit for the toughest business battles.) Soften your tone for a networking event or social occasion by adding color via a shirt, tie or bowtie, or vest. From January through early March, a navy necktie and a burgundy checkered shirt make a bold statement. In the spring, grey pairs well with pastels like light blue, lavender, even pink for a Mothers’ Day brunch… setting a youthful tone, not yawn.

Photo credit MenStyleFashion.com

Vest

Last but not least, the vest is an often overlooked accessory. Here, David Gandy models a classic monochrome look. (Note how the brown hue of his hat, tie, pocket scarf and shoes pair rather well with his grey jacket and vest.)

We’ve rung in 2015. TheSFtailor.com site allows you to fully customize your vest. So why not choose colors or a pattern that complements your grey suit? It’s a new year, redefine your boundaries in personal style and professional success.

Now is an opportune time to be bigger, brighter and bolder.

Women who prefer grey suits can follow the same tips. Visit this page to begin personalizing your suit today. If you’re a woman who prefers a men’s cut coat, suit, or vest, email us with your request. We’ll be happy to respectfully fulfill your order.

We’re prepared to help men and women — of any proportions — who deserve our personal attention and tailoring services.

5 Tailoring Tips for Petite Women

We’re celebrating Short Girl Appreciation Day with five tailoring tips for petite women — who are 5’4″ and under, or 163 cm and under.

First, petite doesn’t mean short and slim. Department stores and pret-a-porter (ready to wear) brands however cut fabric and patterns with that in mind. Narrower shoulders and shorter inseams can be uncomfortable and unflattering for short ladies with larger proportions.

Photo credit: foxnews.com

Empire waist lengthens petite legs & compliment curves.

    • A balancing act is needed if you’re a bustier, well-endowed woman.
      An empire waist cuts the torso just below the bustline. This will create a great visual effect — lengthening those petite legs. Pair a fitted top with a high-waist skirt, trousers or jeans… and even ballerina flats to network your way around the city. Don’t hide what you’ve got! Extra baggy or extra long shirts will only call more attention to your top half.

      BONUS: Empire-style waists designed for regular sizes are easier to find than exclusive petite sizing. Cut that pity party short, and get out the door to shop!

  • Layers can fake a perfect fit.

Invest in a custom tailored jacket. Every woman should have a black blazer in her wardrobe.

Dress it up for business meetings and presentations. Inspiring confidence, it makes a powerful statement. Dress it down with a trendy camisole or a t-shirt for a flirty evening on the town, or fun weekend brunch with your entourage of besties.

If those tops don’t fit your form in some places, your bespoke blazer will still make you look fabulous! Cuff long sleeves to instantly lengthen arms.

BONUS: A fitted shirt under a cropped sweater also lengthens the torso. Longer necklaces can draw eyes downward away from your face, as well as drawing eyes upward away from thicker hips and thighs.

faux pas! These trouser hems make a short woman look shorter.

faux pas! These trouser hems make a short woman look shorter.

  • Your legs are not the problem. Ill-fitting pants are.
    Department stores & popular brands don’t design clothes with you in mind. Proportion is key! Trousers should break atop shoes. Bunching and cuffed hems are quick — but poor fixes. Also vertical patternsdraw eyes upward; choose from a large selection of fabric for you to fully customize your trousers and skirts

  • Pair shoes and bottoms that are similar in color.
    Photo credit huffpost.com
    A monochromatic look gives the illusion of a longer silhouette. Stock your closet with shoes similar in color to your skin tone as well as your stockings / nylons.

Be mindful of your coat as well. The SF Tailor hand tailors clothing for every client. Select your fabric and lining to personalize one of four popular styles. We like the Picadilly: It’s cropped and especially complimentary for petite ladies.

Better yet — send us your measurements and a photo of a coat worn by your favorite celebrity. We specialize in these types of orders.

  • Last but not least, be CONFIDENT.
    Don’t resent your body. Embrace what you’ve been given. Know what can make you look good… and know we can make you look good! So you feel confident when you wear what you love.

Baby, It’s Cold — and Coat Season — Outside

Brrrr! Your holiday shopping is off to a good start, but you have procrastinated and need a proper winter coat for yourself… or somebody you love who’s too stubborn to slow down and buy himself or herself an overcoat. We also tailor bespoke women’s coats, especially for petite and taller ladies. Learn these basics to bundling up and bracing the elements.

Don’t let the cold stop your ambition!

Stavanger sample img. Final look depends on fabric you select.

Fabrics. The best fabrics are wool and cashmere. Cashmere is much warmer, but doesn’t last long for the higher price. Its durability is short, so return on investment (ROI) is less satisfying. Wool will give you more value and as the outer fabric, it does all the work.

Surprisingly only an acetate lining is needed. It layers nicely and comfortably over your clothes. It doesn’t add extra bulk and layers to your body silhouette.

Style. Charcoal / gray colors pair well with black, brown or navy suits. Not everybody likes the attention of a camel or khaki coat, but for what it’s worth our clients garner more compliments in those lighter colors.

Younger men opt for bold patterns, contrasting colors, even trendy buttons — but that’s not as versatile. The shorter Saint-Etienne is slightly less formal, and pairs well with jeans at the weekends. 

However you want it, we’ll tailor it for you.

Fit. The right fit is generally one size larger than your typical suit jacket / blazer. This allows you to move freely without extra layers chocking your neck and burdening shoulders. Don’t be tempted to supersize or oversize your coat. You’ll lose the body heat your overcoat is designed to keep in.

Leave the tailoring to us, so you can resume your busy year-end schedule and fit in time with your friends and familiy. In the meanwhile, get festive with us, TheSFtailor.com team, and sing along with one of our favorite carols.