Monthly Archives: September 2015

Matching Colors Maximizes ROI

In business, there’s a lot to be said for understated elegance. Clothes ought to make you look smart and increase your professional credibility. In part 5 of 6 in the Basics for Newly Bespoke, we’ll show you how matching colors can maximize the ROI on custom made suits.

photo credit shibumi-berlin.comStick to the same color family BUT change the shades for a more subtle look. A monochromatic look lengthens people with shorter dimensions; just don’t choose black because you’ll seem shorter.

Slightly more daring are analogous colors, giving you room to experiment. You may be surprised to learn how classic bordeaux and blue is. A subconscious visual effect blends these colors so people almost sense a decadent purple and they feel at ease. This versatile combination is great with brown or black shoes. The vibrancy of burgundy is a nice lift for cold winter months when we feel blue and gray.

photo credit pinterest.com

Choose complements. A bold orange tie against this blue suit creates a focal point , so you cannot be ignored.

When you choose opposites or complementary colors, people actually feel at harmony and experience a wealth of choice and creative opportunity. Employ this strategy to call attention to layers and complexity to your wardrobe. Remain classy without boredom.

Split-complementary is a minor variation. Instead of choosing two colors directly opposite each other on the color wheel, select three colors — one color and two more colors that neighbor the direct opposite. The resulting ensemble is more visual interesting without disturbing the peace.

On the other hand a triadic selection stimulates a strong visual contrast. Choosing three colors equally distant on the wheel still retains a balance eyes and minds crave.

Tetradic is the most challenging color strategy. Rarely executed well, it can look noisy because two sets of complementary colors are employed — not just one! Pick a dominant color. This alpha – color subdues the rest and speaks volumes about your leadership, not confusion.

A word of warning: black is too stark for day wear. Further it can make people of smaller stature seem shorter. Brown is more casual, and not appropriate for mainstream business environments. Apart from these boundaries, you have a wide array of colors to shape your personal style from.

Fine Fashion Pairings: Shirts & Ties

Following Part 1 (intro) 2 (measurements) and 3 (styles) we pair shirts and ties in Part 4 of what you need to know if you’re new to bespoke suits online: Every professional wardrobe ought to have a classic white dress shirt and a blue oxford shirt. Beyond that, take calculated risks and let your confidence shine through your unique pairing of shirts and ties. For instance CHUNKY ties, not skinny ties, now suggest a more youthful look. Meanwhile knit ties, slightly retro and becoming popular again, are casual.

When you walk into a room, your shirt and tie are a powerful focal point.
So how do you ante up? Got a license to kill in your shirt & tie?

Photo credit lookastic.comWe chose single-breasted jackets because they’re versatile, so you can focus on color combos. Use a color wheel if you’re a maverick at matching solid colors. The tie should be richer in color than the shirt. When it effectively creates a nice contrast, it draws positive attention to your face. Good eye contact leads to better communication.

Next, experiment with a polka dot tie against a standard blue shirt — or vice versa as Joseph Gordon-Levitt sports this marine blue satin tie against a sea of white and burgundy. Blue and red make a classic (complementary) color combo especially in winter, when everybody else wears gray and black.

Should you choose a stripped or patterned tie, the key is to match the color of your shirt with a color in that pattern. We like this particular example for its versatility with a blue or white shirt.

photo credit pinterest.comAccent your fashion with striped and checkered shirts. These patterns aren’t classics per se, but most have one or two of these shirts in their closet. Blue stripes are the most common.

Right photo: We’ve chosen a lilac stripped shirt to highlight the same light purple color in the necktie. Keep patterns minimal till you’ve mastered patterns. We’ll talk more about prints in part 5. Note how the brushed steel tie clip brings the tie and light gray suit together. The length of the clip should be 3/4 the width of the tie.

Close up, a micro polka dot printed tie may seem busy against a slate gray striped shirt. Standing at a respectful distance of personal space, the tie seems black and the combo pays off well for bankers and lawyers with a moderate flare for fashion.

Looking to better understand what your dress shirt implicitly says about your ambition and character? Learn how a custom made shirt can make a positive impression and impact your future.

Styles that Fit your Figure

In part 3 let’s consider what style of made to measure suit compliments your body type and personal taste. If you need to revisit earlier segments, here are part 1 (advantages to personally tailored clothes) and part 2 (accurate measurements).

photo credit squarespace.com

Debate: single vent (left) versus double vent (right)

Single- or Double-breasted Jacket
with Single or Double Vents  

Single-breasted jackets with 2 buttons are common but taller men may prefer 3 buttonsBTW never button the last button!  A double-breasted jacket with six buttons might help you appear slimmer… but it can make short men look stocky or husky. Classic American style often features single vents, while classic English style features two side vents (Tuxedos have no vents, but The SF Tailor can vent them if you specify in your order.) Double vents have become popular in fully customizable suits among our American clientele. 

photo credit gurjotnewyork.com

notched lapels (left) v peaked lapels (right)

Peaked or Notched Lapels
Peaked lapels are considered more elegant than notched lapels. They appear to have longer lines and thus create a visual effect that draws attention to your face. If you stand shorter than 6’0 adding height can subconsciously increase your power and influence.

Double-breasted suits should have peaked lapels. Want notched lapels? We can accommodate your request.

Two- or Three-piece Suits
Jacket and trousers comprise the common business suit. The two-piece suit is the unspoken uniform from entry-level professionals to C-suite execs in finance, law and white collar jobs. It’s versatile to suit up the diversity of body shapes. It’s even popular from less formal weddings to vow renewal ceremonies.

photo credit tumblr.com

almost right: back should be slightly longer than the front

The addition of a waistcoat or vest makes it a more formal three-piece suit. Museum curators or university deans seem more likely to wear them. No surprise this preppy look flatters the leaner body type of scholars.

Pants or Trousers
The ‘right length’ means the waistline rests at your natural waist and the hem breaks atop your shoes. See the photo on right.

We didn’t tailor these made to measure trousers. If we did, we prefer the back of the pants to sit slightly lower than this photo shows — and just above your heels.

classic vs cutaway collarShirt
You can find shirts with a traditional collar much more easily, while a more formal cutaway collar draws more attention to your necktie or larger bow tie. The more modern cutaway looks fabulous with a full- or half- Windsor knot. It’s certainly not for the faint of heart!

Vest or Waistcoat
This optional element fits perfectly when it sits at the waistband, and thus conceals the tucked in shirt. Like the single-breasted jacket, the single-breasted vest is simple and popular. Got bravado or swagger? The double-breasted waistcoat requires it. A matching three-piece suit suggests a more formal look.

The SF Tailor specializes in fully customizable business clothes. With precise measurements and styling details that compliment your body shape, present yourself and your work with pride.

Made to Measure Fits the Best

Style is the answer to everything. A fresh way to approach a dull or dangerous thing.
To do a dangerous thing with style is what I call art.” – Charles Bukowski

Know thyself to make certain your custom made clothing fits as well as possible. In other words, get accurate measurements. In part 2 in this series of Basics for Newly Bespoke, we cover the measurements you need to order a tailored made suit. Simply knowing your height isn’t enough.

Print the measurements page before visiting a local alterations service to get your profile in minutes.

Hips lie below the waist, stomach above.

Waist: Wearing only boxers or briefs — measure your natural waistline, or the narrowest part of the torso. For most it is at the same height as the belly button (but it may be above the navel for people with long upper torsos). Your weight can change so keep one finger between the measuring tape & your body. In contrast stomach size is the widest part of your abdomen and hip size is the widest part below the waist.

Crotch: Anchor the tape at the center of your back at your waist. Run the tape between your legs, pulling comfortably at the crotch, and up to your natural waist in front. This should not fit as snuggly as a jock strap! The tape should be at the same level, front and back. In contrast thigh size measures the widest part of your upper leg.

Pant length: Without your shoes and standing on a hard floor (not a carpet or rug) hold the tape from the waist to approximately an inch above the floor.

Our website tools help you find the right shirt length.

Jacket / shirt length: See image left. Relax your arms at your sides and measure from the highest part of your shoulder, or the point next to the shirt collar, to the tip of your thumb. The tape must pass through the center of the chest. If your legs are shorter, slightly reduce the length of your jacket.

Sleeve length is the distance from one shoulder inseam down the arm to the thumb bone. Bicep size is the measurement from the widest part of your bicep muscle. Wrist size is taken when the tape is wrapped around a wrist with a finger between your body and the tape.

Shoulder width: Extend tape from one sleeve inseam to the other, along the lowest part of the shirt’s neck. In contrast measure your chest from under your arms and around the fullest part of your chest.

Breathe easily by inserting one or two fingers between your neck and the tape.

Neck Size: Keep the tape slightly loose around the middle of your neck (at the Adam’s apple). By loose, we mean insert one or two fingers between your neck and the tape.

Your body can change especially if you are doing cross-fit or extreme fitness training. If so, visit a local alterations service to get re-measured every 6-12 months.

Trust model shots or lookbooks for styles, not examples of how clothes will fit because expert use of a bulldog clip guarantees a perfect fit all the time! Part 3 will cover styles that fit your figure.

Basics for Newly Bespoke Ladies & Gents

photo credit todayschristianwoman.comIt’s September & while some are back in school, you — recent graduate — are beginning to climb the corporate ladder. Good luck, we’re here with you every step of the way!

In part 1 of 6 entries explaining the basics of tailored made clothing, we discuss 5 advantages of buying custom made suits for men and women:

1) Set your own tone: Others will take notice as your made to measure suit testifies to your attention to detail, creativity and discernment. Readymade suits rarely fit well and often need alterations, which may not leave you completely satisfied. Mass manufactured apparel doesn’t account for the asymmetry of your body. They actually call attention to a hip that’s higher than the other, or one arm longer.

2) Get the perfect fit: Tailor made professional wear will fit you so well that you’ll feel confident. Be content knowing your suit expresses yourself and it looks good. Garments are made from your exact measures. Our tailors even leave a small margin in case you gain or shed some weight in the near future. Your fit isn’t affected dramatically. This is a serious advantage over department store drones.

distinctions

The devil is in the details, from button holes & button thread color to stitches to monograms.

3) Define specifications and distinctions: Style your suit according to your taste and preference. Don’t settle for an off-the-rack suit that’s flawless in design, but in a color and/or fabric you don’t like. Worse yet, you find a superior quality fabric in your color — but the style doesn’t flatter your body type. It’s almost impossible to find the perfect combination of design, color and fit. But ordering custom made suits online easily overcomes this trifecta!

4) Less hassle: When we deliver your made to measure garments to your door in a month, you won’t need to have them altered. Bespoke clothes certainly save you time and effort, so claim that prize for time management and efficiency expertise.

5) Quality modern tailoring at an accessible price: Expect a fully customizable suit to your liking since you call all the shots including the price tag. A la carte extras let you to make elegance and luxury as affordable as you want.

If you dress for the position you want, tailor made suits have a huge competitive advantage over off-the-rack office wear. Now that you’re eager to express yourself, let’s move on to measurements and making certain your suit fits in part 2.

photo credit everyguyed.com

Dress for the job you want during interviews and daily. Will department store drones put you at a disadvantage?